Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel Pump Issues

Supreme87

By Supreme87,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Supreme87 Newbie

Supreme87

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys

just wanted to say first of all, im a long time reader but first time poster, SAU has helped me with a few other issues in the past so thanks for that!

any ways i am having some fuel dramas with my rb20det converted s13 silvia and would love to hear any opinions.

dramas started the other day, i started to rip a donut (closed road of course) got only around once and the car completely died on me, like it was singing at pretty much redline then just lost all power and nearly stalled, once the car was stopped for a sec it revved back up like normal and kept driving fine.

i though okay must be just cause its low on fuel so i topped it up to about 2/3 full and tried again, same result.

i pulled the pump out to inspect, i was told it was a 044, it looks like one cept it has nothing stamped on it at all? ebay fake???

couldn't see anything visible wrong with it so i just put it back in and now its making a weird sound, it was already really loud but now every 20 - 30 secs it makes a really strange sound that i havent noticed before almost like a clicking or gargeling which only lasts for a split second, the fuel press drops for a moment (from ~40 to around 38) then straight back up.

im pretty sure that its broken, but i thought id see if you guys have any more suggestions before i go buy a new one as im pretty broke at the moment

i just thought that when pumps broke that was it, just died

car details

s13

rb20det swap

044 pump intank (maybe copy) re-wired

aftermarket fpr (probably ebay copy too)

Edited by Supreme87
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435105-fuel-pump-issues/
Share on other sites
hy_rpm Proficient

hy_rpm

Posted
Posted

I don't know about the 044 but the 040 has no sock at the bottom pickup

just mesh and it pretty common if the tank is run low often they pick up a lot of the dirt and crud off the bottom of the tank

Once that happens they start to get blocked and noisy

Just get a walbro intank 255lph there cheap these days and reliable and quiet due to the new e85 version

Only $120

Supreme87 Newbie

Supreme87

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the replys,

funny you say that, i forgot to mention earlier there was no sock on the pickup just the open fitting sucking straight into the pump, there is a mesh filter inside the pump that i could see a bit of crud in, pretty stupid whoever put this thing in.

i have a spare surge tank and lifter pump sitting around here, u guys think its worth going external? car isn't pushing any crazy power or anything but id like to go belt it at the track one day soon

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

044 is an external pump... 040 is internal. so if u took it from inside the tank... it shouldnt be an 044. if it is... it was installed dangerously wrong.

some pumps can be faulty or dying and still work from time to time :)

Please explain why it is dangerously wrong (if a sock was fitted).

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

The pumps are the same so not going to explode if mounted internally. It's the pickup area that's different. the 040 is open and the 044 has a barb. you can drop an o44 intank no worries but not using a sock is asking for trouble.

C4a0s Proficient

C4a0s

Posted
Posted

personally i havent seen a 044 fail terribly wrong being submerged so i cant say i have irrefutable proof but yea.. other than the sock and inlet design, there's also the idea that the 044 was designed out of tank which means it might get hotter?

IMO.. why not just use a pump that was designed to be in tank instead of putting an external pump in tank.. seems dangerous to me to be messing with anything that is so close to 40-50 litres of petrol...

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

personally i havent seen a 044 fail terribly wrong being submerged so i cant say i have irrefutable proof but yea.. other than the sock and inlet design, there's also the idea that the 044 was designed out of tank which means it might get hotter?

IMO.. why not just use a pump that was designed to be in tank instead of putting an external pump in tank.. seems dangerous to me to be messing with anything that is so close to 40-50 litres of petrol...

It's not dangerous though. There's no oxygen so no boom possible.
mungy Experienced

mungy

Posted
Posted

It's not dangerous though. There's no oxygen so no boom possible.

There is some oxygen, unless the tank is full. And when idiots think that removing the charcoal canister improves power also makes it more dangerous as the canister creates the vac in the tank to remove any possible air.

but the fact stands that the only way to light the fuel is with a spark from incorrect install as well as removal of the canister

Using the 044 as an 040 is no biggie so long as a filter is there to do its job

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

Why? Have a look at the bottom of the 040 pump and have a look at the bottom of an R33 fuel tank. Nestling a sock on the bottom of the tank guarantees no pick up issues just like Nissan did it. An 040 mounted shy of the bottom can be a problem. Certainly plenty of guys have mounted them successfully without issues but there are quite a few SAU'ers who have had issues on low tanks.

C4a0s Proficient

C4a0s

Posted
Posted

Why? Have a look at the bottom of the 040 pump and have a look at the bottom of an R33 fuel tank. Nestling a sock on the bottom of the tank guarantees no pick up issues just like Nissan did it. An 040 mounted shy of the bottom can be a problem. Certainly plenty of guys have mounted them successfully without issues but there are quite a few SAU'ers who have had issues on low tanks.

:thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...