Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guys.

Since I had a heavy duty single plate put in I've had a loud rattle gearbox rollover noise. It's been a couple of years now and it's still about the same, maybe slightly worse.
Has anyone been successful in fixing the rattle without rebuilding or replacing the box?

Basically the rattle is quite loud when accelerating in 1st,2nd,3rd from about 2k - 3k rpm then it stops.
There is a whirring and and slight rattle when in neutral at Idle and it stops once the clutch is pressed in.

Any feedback, tips, help ect would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435632-r33-gearbox-rollover-rattle-noise/
Share on other sites

Could be any number of things. Can't see that type of gearbox or brand of clutch would play any part. But the fact that it goes away when input shaft stops spinning ( clutch depressed ) means there's a good chance it's inside the box, main shaft or lay shaft bearing. It's a box out, maybe rebuild job. Not nesisarily a big job $$ pull the box out yourself and get rebuilt for less than a grand.

Took it to a recommended transmission workshop in north brisbane and after having a listen they said nothing to stress about. Its mainly gear chatter due to the heavy duty clutch. Exeedy hd singleplate and r33 box.

Took it to a recommended transmission workshop in north brisbane and after having a listen they said nothing to stress about. Its mainly gear chatter due to the heavy duty clutch. Exeedy hd singleplate and r33 box.

Really hd singleplate causing wining noise etc when driving in gears and clutch is fully engaged ie foot not on pedal ??

Any other gearbox guys ( Corey ) comment on this.?

Edited by tricstar

Mine rattles 1700-2000rpm also in all gears. A fairly loud vibration. Been doing it for 6 years/120,000km. Took it to a gearbox place 5 years ago and they said gear chatter and it wouldn't break. Only now am I looking at another gearbox due to increasing bearing noise.

Could be any number of things. Can't see that type of gearbox or brand of clutch would play any part. But the fact that it goes away when input shaft stops spinning ( clutch depressed ) means there's a good chance it's inside the box, main shaft or lay shaft bearing. It's a box out, maybe rebuild job. Not nesisarily a big job $$ pull the box out yourself and get rebuilt for less than a grand.

Type of gearbox and brand of clutch play a huge part. Clutches don't all come from the same factory; even clutches from the same factory won't all sound or work the same. Hence so much variance in what people say; some will complain, some will think it's the best clutch in the world. RB25DET boxes are notorious for having noisy release bearings; GQ Patrol Diesel boxes have common rollover noises, particularly with aftermarket clutches.

this is roughly how i would go to rule out what the problem is NOT.

If the noise is there with the clutch pedal is down and up its a good bet its the clutch or thrust bearing

if it is only there when the clutch pedal is down then it is a problem with the clutch or thrust bearing.

if it is only there when the clutch pedal is up then it is in the gearbox.

if it is there in neutral it is likely to be the input shaft bearing,

if it is loud in the lower gears and quieter in the higher one it could be countershaft bearings.

if the noise is a rattle and only happens when you engage the clutch its probably the clutch.

serisouly the cheapest thing to do is put redline shockproof oil in the box, think bout it

oil $180

clutch $300 and up if you do it yourself

gearbox $1000 +

even if you do put the redline oil in and the noise is still there you can just drain it and reuse it once you have fixed the problem, its not like it will do 20000km before if the problem is still there.

One flaw with that, is when the clutch pedal is up and noisy but the sound disappears when it is down - you assume it to be a gearbox issue, however, a thrust bearing can also make noise when the pedal is up, that will disappear when you put the slightest pressure on the clutch pedal (basically until it starts getting hard to push in). It's actually a common problem in these boxes, having the thrust bearing rattle around on the input shaft retainer in neutral, with the clutch out. It sometimes sits up against the pressure plate, but not flush with it. Having the clutch slightly depressed will create enough movement to press the bearing firmly against the pressure plate and stop the rattle.

The test for this is to apply a slight amount of pressure to the clutch pedal (basically until it starts getting "hard" to push the pedal in) and if the sound disappears then this is your issue. It's a non-issue; simplyan annoying sound. If you have to push the clutch all the way in for the sound to disappear, then yes, it is likely a gearbox bearing or shaft.

It's true the sound isn't a cause for worry. And yes it's annoying at traffic lights or when you are parking your car in a garage / echoing area.

Spraying some lithium grease on your input shaft retainer can help with the sound. Mine actually went away permanently by doing this, though I think I got lucky with that, as for most people it's a temporary solution.

Pull off the rubber clutch fork dust cover and shine a light inside. You'll see your clutch and release bearing. Avoid spraying towards the clutch...aim for the release bearing itself and the input shaft retainer. This will give it a nice travel of lube to slide along and should quieten the noise a bit.

I have this issue on my rb20det manual box, I have had the box off and checked the clutch, also replaced the thrust bearing, noise is still there, it's definitely the box, slows down and stops once foot is on the clutch, noise occurs in all gears, although isn't overly noticeable in 5th but that's probably due to wind and road noise. - does anyone know anyone in the Brisbane region I can take my box to to get fixed? - or is it easy to do yourself?

  • 7 months later...
  • 7 years later...
On 12/6/2013 at 1:49 PM, Getto88 said:

Took it to a recommended transmission workshop in north brisbane and after having a listen they said nothing to stress about. Its mainly gear chatter due to the heavy duty clutch. Exeedy hd singleplate and r33 box.

Just finished my manual conversion on my 25det stagea and running a new exedy hd single plate clutch and light weight flywheel. Coincidence? I’m using the r33 gtr equivalent gearbox… 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...