Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I'm new to the forum and don't have a car. Depending on finances I'm planning on getting an s15 next month.

My preference would be a jdm spec r but there's some aud spec s' and r's for alright prices. Any advice would be appreciated, noting that I'm planning on modding any with the following.

Exhaust, fmic, power fc, injectors, fuel pump and maybe headers.

What would be my best choice?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435664-interested-in-an-s15/
Share on other sites

Chances are, a clean stock AUDM S15 will be better condition than a JDM one of equivalent mileage (not that imports have very high chance of being wound back). The AUDM ones (the standard ones) are usually owned by people who can afford to service it properly and the km are most likely genuine. Plus you get a 260 km/h speedo ;).

If the car you're looking at is modded then it gets tricky.

I own an ADM Spec S, and it is a great car. Do suspension work before you even look at power mods.

Do not even bother with JDM. The market is flooded by accident damaged examples of those (thanks to dealerships). And don't expect to find one with genuine KM's.

Go for an ADM Spec S, it is lighter than the ADM Spec R (as it doesn't have a sunroof).

You'll have much better chances of finding an ADM one that has a straight chassis and original panels.... though these chances will still be slim. Ive scanned the S15 market for a long time.

Cheers, thanks for the advice. Yeh I was planning on putting in coilovers anyway, what else suspension wise?

My eyes have definately been opened from feedback now. I wasn't aware of how many spuds are out there, I used to have a 180sx red top, first Australian owner and my mechanic said it was one of the cleanest and straightest he'd seen. Was just lucky I guess.

Cheers, thanks for the advice. Yeh I was planning on putting in coilovers anyway, what else suspension wise?

My eyes have definately been opened from feedback now. I wasn't aware of how many spuds are out there, I used to have a 180sx red top, first Australian owner and my mechanic said it was one of the cleanest and straightest he'd seen. Was just lucky I guess.

Yeah, very lucky haha. Straight and original early model S13's/180s are near impossible to find nowadays.

Massive improvement in front-end stability and turn-in if you install a Nismo Power Brace II or Cusco Tension Bar. Also, install front/rear strut braces. Rigidity wise this is ideal for the street.

I have HKS Hipermax III Coilovers... with 6kg Front/4kg Rear rates. They are a firm ride when the dampers are set hard. From what I've found, going with a coilover that has higher spring rates would be completely overkill for our roads, unless you like drifting. As for alignment adjustability - I have Ikeya Formula rear camber arms, front tension rods (for castor), and rear toe rods.....they really are excellent quality but there are plenty of cheaper options available.

Go with something like that for a basic suspension/rigidity setup and you'll be set. Then down the track you'd have room to install some swaybars.

if your modding who gives a f**k. just go for the bloody cheapest.

f**k panel gaps. f**k lightness, f**k it all.

buy the cheapest and spend your change on mods.

then sell it and buy a real car!

but serious. so long as it isnt rooted, just buy the cheapest bro. :yes:

A couple of good posts above about adm being generally in a lot better condition than jdm models.

I recently spent about 2 months looking for one and bought an adm model with awesome mods for a reasonable price. Saw too many busted jdm models .. My tip .. Check the chassis rails all the time lol

JDM cars have a few benefits... The JDM Spec R engine has 184kW, compared to the 147kW for the AUS spec, same as the S14 series. Better trim, with cool colours on seats and door trims, A-pillar boost gauge, better stereo, climate control, and a ball bearing turbo (i think anyway)

Personally I'd like the GT spec AUD S15, with leather, etc but good luck finding one

I am a newbie too and looking into an s15 for myself but, in saying that I want to do a lot of research too, hence why I joined a couple of forums to find out the main problems to look out for and what not so any info would be very helpful! excuse the intrusion of this thread sir :P

will follow this post for any updates :)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When sanding across a convex panel, you need to sand, as much as possible, at right angles to the curve. If the panel is compound convex curved (ie curved in both directions) then you are SOL and have to use "craftsmanship" to get it right.
    • Today in Skyline arts and crafts!! I’ve made some progress.    had to put extra notes in there so I don’t stuff it up 😂
    • This sounds like me. And then why I leave shit that I had previously hobbled together broken. Lately I've changed strategies to "If I don't want to justify the money on decent stuff, I'm not going to justify hobbling it together". I'm still for DIY, but DIY it properly is more my thing. However, I am terrible on not setting up backups still... Which reminds me, I need to go backup some of my work VM machines... Oh, it's also why I've become a lover of building things into Docker Containers... Then I just need a machine that can run docker, and bam, that specific system is up and running, on the specific versions of everything I need for it to run (In the event a change in required software version breaks something else). Also, these days, my steep learning curves are spent with work related stuff, and on very varied projects, that my want to do other random projects like build a dashboard for my own car has dwindled away to "I just want the car running", which is my current PITA, as I'm getting the Landcruiser usable again, and it has just been non-stop the past 6 to 8 weeks of buying parts, and working on it. Oh, and tools that are meant to be fit for purpose... And they break, because 25 year old 4WD decides it's stronger... But by the time I have it ready to roll back out the drive way, nearly all the stuff in it will have been touched and serviced, so the damn thing better give me NO FREAKING ISSUES, for at least the next 50,000KMs! Just redone whole front of the motor, and resealed the up top stuff, replaced a bunch of things getting perished, new timing belt done, water pump, lower timing cover (Toyota diesel engine runs timing GEARS for the bottom half the motor, and a timing belt from halfway up to the top), new harmonic balancer, fix up the alternator, new thermostat, full swivel hub rebuild, new bearings and seals front and back, steering box rebuild, new battery, and today, it turns out a rear shock has let go, so four new shocks are about to go on order, and that will leave me with after the next run of work, to see if I need to order just a brake caliper re-seal, or if I'll need new pistons in them too. Oh, and I'll finish welding in the new floor sheet metal shortly too. Presently I just want it finished already... But once all the above is done, I still need to fully service diffs, gearbox, transfer, and motor. Then flush and bleed the clutch, and flush and bleed the brakes. But enough about our waffle, back to Duncan's heat problems... I think for Duncan he just gets a thermoswitch, and a manual switch to run some water misters. Thermo so it's only on above certain temps, and the manual switch so it can be turned off even if it is above certain temperatures. IE, switch on for "I'm now on track", then it doesn't need any "smart" computers that might try and do things wrong. And switch the thing off completely on the cool down lap, so when he stops in pits, there's not even a possibility of it dripping any water out to get him in trouble.
    • So I ran into the same problem. I got stuck in the cycle of again of putting putty sanding it, putting putty sanding it, because of a low spot. And notice my block is not completely flat with the panel, even though it's a long block. My panel is slightly curved. Is this an issue? Do I need something that matches the door perfectly, or no?    I do have the smaller flexible block that covers the width of the repair just not the length, I was experimenting with it again to but seems to be the same issue
×
×
  • Create New...