Jump to content
SAU Community

Broke A Bolt Installing Coilovers!

Jack0R33
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jack0R33 Collaborator

Jack0R33

Posted
Posted

Almost had a great day installing my coilovers until...

post-62143-0-84849900-1385637897_thumb.jpg

Snapped that bolt holding the bottom end of the coilover. It is on the passenger side and it has a few threads left.

I took the nut from the drivers side and put it on the few threads left on the passenger side.

Used some spare nut i had lying around for the drivers side as it was less fussy.

I took her for a drive and all was ok but i really want to get this fixed tomorrow morning!

Anyone know the name of the arm, or whatever it is, that has the bolt sticking out of it so i can replace the whole thing?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435668-broke-a-bolt-installing-coilovers/
Share on other sites
dontyellpl0x Mentor

dontyellpl0x

Posted
Posted

I did something similar fairly recently. You just need to replace the front left, by the looks of it, upright. Big bolt at the top with the upper control arm, big nut under the black metal cap that holds the whole hub/wheel assembly.

Here you go - http://m.ebay.com.au/itm?itemId=360426677294

I sourced a local one that was a fair bit cheaper then that.

Jack0R33 Collaborator

Jack0R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah i had a more in depth look after i posted that, found it to be the front control arm, or front upright as you called it.

I am looking in the parts section for one now, will call wreckers tomorrow morning and if i cant find one i'll search on ebay.

Was so close to enjoying the Ohlins :(.

Thanks for the help man, did you replace the upright yourself? Just two nuts aye, sounds simple.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Control arm and upright are not same thing. There is an upper control arm, and a lower control arm, and the upright runs (vertically) between the outer ends of each of those arms. You don't want a control arm, you want an upright.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 1
dontyellpl0x Mentor

dontyellpl0x

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the help man, did you replace the upright yourself? Just two nuts aye, sounds simple.

Yeah I did it myself. You will have to do undo the bracket that holds the brake line aswell if I remember correctly, but yeah it's not a hard job

Jack0R33 Collaborator

Jack0R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Control arm and upright are not same thing. There is an upper control arm, and a lower control arm, and the upright runs (vertically) between the outer ends of each of those arms. You don't want a control arm, you want an upright.

Got ya, thanks mate.

Alright i'll go grab one now and see how it goes. Is $80 a fair price for this piece?

Jack0R33 Collaborator

Jack0R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Problem solved. Bought the upright for $80 and had it installed by Tims Performance on Sunnyholt road for $30, fair price as i did not want to undo everything again. I'll let him install the rears as well!

Lovin the front coilovers already.

Cheers guys.

dontyellpl0x Mentor

dontyellpl0x

Posted
Posted

Problem solved. Bought the upright for $80 and had it installed by Tims Performance on Sunnyholt road for $30, fair price as i did not want to undo everything again. I'll let him install the rears as well!

 

Lovin the front coilovers already.

 

Cheers guys.

Wise move, sometimes it's a good idea to let pro's do the installing. Good to give some things a try though :)

Jack0R33 Collaborator

Jack0R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just an update.

Have had the Ohlins PCV coilovers installed for a few days now and my what a difference they have made! Its a whole new car because of them.

Front shocks are 15/30 clicks rears i think theyre on 7/30 clicks from soft, they don't send shocks up your spine, they do allow your car to feel as if it is on rails, until you understeer.

I know coilovers are not meant for eliminating body roll, but these definitely reduced the roll in a major way. Coupled with the GTR seats i have installed, this is a killer combination which i would recommend to anyone!

It almost feels like your at time zone drivin a car in those simulators. I just want a set of sway bars to complete the package.

The best money ive spent on the car so far.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...