Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I'm putting in a wireless reverse camera tomorrow and wondering if I can splice into a reverse trigger wire at the shifter. Anyone done this and possibly remember color of the wire, might save me some time rather than checking all the wires with a multimeter.

Being wireless there was no need to run cables the full length of the car so it would be a shame (and very time consuming) to have to splice into the wires in the rear somewhere. And defeats the purpose of getting the wireless one.

Any input much appreciated.

Thanks

You will still have to splice a wire in the back to power the camera when in reverse. At the same time as powering the radio to switch to reverse function. I always check the wires with a multimeter just in case. There will be a wire under the console somewhere

LT.pdf

I don't think it will be as easy as you hope. Even Pin 41 on the TCU (rev lamp relay) is 0V when in R position & battery voltage when in any other position, so it depends what you need to trigger the display. If it's 12V, you may as well run a wire up front as Brad so rightly suggests.

Yep, best spot to get power is the reverse lamp I would say. The shifter doesn't control any wiring, it comes from inside the gearbox sump. You will need to splice at the tcu in the passenger side kick panel.

I've done it! Found the reverse 12v positive wire behind the drivers side kick panel in the biggest loom. I will splice into it and use that as the trigger wire.

For anyone else that needs to know its behind drivers side kick panel inthe big loom. It's the orange wire. (There are a few orange ones but the others are twisted in pairs with other wires, the correct one is not twisted). It's 12volt+ only in reverse and 0volts when not in reverse as its the light feed.

Much easier than running wires the whole length of the car..... Not to mention the sealed up tailgate!!!! That's why I decided to buy wireless.

Scotty, it Wasn't that hard to pin point really, after I checked the color of the wires at the tailgate plug and tested there before moving down to the kick panel.

Hopefully this post will save other people some time if they need to wire up a wireless camera.

  • 2 years later...

Thread resurrection...

Big thanks to walkoau for the wire identification, I got the Renault camera and wireless sender mentioned in this thread hooked up and working with aftermarket head unit.

Camera - > av sender - > 12v from reverse light

Headunit reverse input -> orange wire in loom

Headunit - > av reciever -> switched 12v

or give us a snapshot for BCM pin for reverse signal?

Sorry, I did not get that close just lifted carpet near sill on drivers side, saw bundle of wires and scratched off some plastic on the first orange wire that was not paired - multimeter read 12v only when in reverse. I just patched in wire at that point and feed back up behind the dash.

If I get a some spare time I will try to trace it back and snap a pic. In any case should not take long to test a few cables should you not get lucky like me and easy to reinsulate the wrong ones.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...