Jump to content
SAU Community

Harmonic Balancer Removal, Stuck! Nee Help Asap

the-31

By the-31,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

the-31 Apprentice

the-31

Posted
Posted

Need some help with Harmonic balancer removal.

After a race yesterday I realised the main bolt for the harmonic balancer was loose and the back of the balancer (plate with timing marks) had come away from the rest of the harmonic balancer (I assume the rubber has let go and I need a new balancer, this balancer is after market, can't remember the brand)

Normally is takes me 15mine to remove all belts and the harmonic balancer I've done it a few times in the past and it's 99.9% my fault the bolt was loose. But I've now spent over an hour and the balancer just won't pull off with the pulley puller, I thought maybe it was crooked so I tightened the main bolt back up and hoped to pull the pulley straight and tried to pull it off again but it's taking way too much pressure from the puller and something's going to break and it's not going to be the harmonic balancer.

So does any KNOW why it won't come off?

Cheers. Gotta get it sorted ASAP, it's a 30 bottom end

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

I'd say it has moved and wedged against the key way, remove motor and apply heat would be the best way, or carefully cut it off chances are the crank is damaged now anyway

I remember someone telling me they have a 30 crank with the balancer still on it cause it wouldn't came off

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

Yeah bolt loose causes balancers to whack back and forth on the keyway which burrs the edges. If it's a cheap puller, you may as well sacrifice it rather than pulling the motor out. As per above there's a fair chance the crank may be damaged. If it's not too bad and you can replace the key's (cheap from Nissan) and never let the bolt get loose again then you might be alright. If the cam belt gear key is stuffed as well then you're really in trouble. It's obviously more important to hold the belt gear in the perfectly correct position than the balancer.

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

Try not to start new threads, get's confusing as people still post in both. You could ask the same questions in here as people that are interested will follow the post to help of for their own interest.

Standard balancer will be fine. Otherwise get a Ross or an ATI if you've got the cash.

Doesn't need to be the same weight as before. Wouldn't hurt to get a balancing/machining company to spin it up to make sure it is balanced.

Replaced your crank keys to be safe, saves it sticking again. Put Molybdenum anti seize on the crank snout too, even further prevents sticking/grabbing.

Underdriven only worthwhile if you're on the track 90% of the time. Gives you lesser P/S and A/C (which many can live with) on the street.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...