R32 Gtr Clutch Pedal Issues

[kawasakirider]

Hey everyone, I've been having an issue with my GTR's clutch pedal for a day or two and up until now I hadn't had a chance to look at it.

I searched on here and couldn't find a definitive answer to my specific problem, so I'll describe what it's doing...

When I press the clutch to disengage the clutch from the flywheel, the pedal doesn't have a consistent feel. Sometimes the pedal gets stuck to the floor completely and other times it comes 3/4 of the way out.

When it gets stuck to the floor completely I am still able to change gears properly and the clutch engages the flywheel with the tiniest amount of movement from my foot, it's as if the pedal barely moves off the firewall.

Sometimes in first or reverse, the car will get stuck in gear and won't allow me to take it out, regardless of me pushing the clutch.



Now I thought in the beginning that it may be the slave or master cyl, but I'm not losing any fluid.

A mate of mine told me to disconnect the clutch booster and block it off, which I just did. The problems are FAR less exaggerated, but it's still there.

Any suggestions? Any advice is appreciated!

[Ben C34]

I would bleed it and see what happens.

[533 RYC]

^ +1

Pedal staying on the floor is consistent with slave failure.

your fork hasn't popped off the pivot has it?

[kawasakirider]

Will give it a bleed, thanks guys.

I haven't been under it to see if the fork has popped off the pivot, but if it had, wouldn't it stop working all together?

The car had a lot of work done a few years ago, but I don't know how old the slave is. I just assumed it was the slave when it first happened and put it down to it being old and worn out. Double clutching probably killed it.

[Dan_J]

could also be leaking slightly slave or master,most likely master and a new one will fix it

[GTRPSI]

Bleed it first, It does sound like a air lock though.

Booster only assists the ease of the pedal, we still drove ours with a damaged booster, made no diffrence to anything other than making the pedal feel heavier.

Id be tempted to get under the car while someone presses the clutch pedal to see the amount of movement on the clutch arm, see if it travels out far enough and returns all the way back.

Not enough travel, then bleed, still not enough start changing the master or slave, look for which one might show some dampness or weeping and pick that one first for replacement.

[kawasakirider]

I've driven it a fair bit since and there is really no loss of fluid, so it's baffling to me.

I'll bleed it and see how it goes. Check for any signs of leaking.

Thanks everyone!

[niZmO_Man]

Don't forget to check the clutch line!

[kawasakirider]

Thanks guys, I haven't really had a chance to have a look at it or bleed it as I've had no one around to give me a hand. No clue how I'd bleed it alone.

Anyway, I was poking around out of boredom and I found this:



Looks to me like the master cyl needs replacing. My mate is still adamant that it's the booster though. He said if the diaphragm is getting stuck, it can keep the pedal on the ground. I'd agree with this, however I think it's the master cyl as:

Pedal feel isn't consistently strong
The leak in that photo (even though it's miniscule and the fluid level hasn't dropped, maybe it's sucking air)
Clutch engagement is on the floor, I only have to twitch my foot and the clutch engages...

Now, I see master cylinder rebuild kits for only $50. Should I rebuild it myself or buy a new one? I see people warning against rebuilding them, it doesn't really make sense to me if the bore for the piston isn't scratched?

Thanks for the advice.

[533 RYC]

Cannot see underside of the M\C to see the extent of the fluid. By the picture though, that's more of a weep than a leak (no fluid loss). Air being sucked in would by a remote possibility as the rubber seal for the reservoir is decent sized seal. NIP up the clamp a touch, not much though as you don't want to crack the reservoir & bleed it. You can bleed the slave by yourself by unbolting it (there's a few procedures on here).

[jiffo]

Pedal will stay on the floor as it's designed to do just that.

The return spring on the pedal goes over centre about half way down, thus reducing the effort required.

Without your slave and master working in conjunction properly, the pedal will stay down.

[533 RYC]

I'd also replace the M\C, not rebuild it. Although it might not be scratched, the wear from the seal will reduce pressure.

[kawasakirider]

Thanks for the info guys. Bled it today and it only got marginally better. No real difference and I didn't manage to get any air out of it.

Bought a master cyl, clutch booster and slave cyl tonight, so I'll fit them all tomorrow and hope that's the end of it!