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I had tuning issue last year.. so many that I was frustrating when driving my GTR... so we finally discovered my TPS was faulty.

-bought a new one.
- My tuner, mechanic and friends told me that a new ECU would probably make the car run smoother overall. so I bought a Haltech plug-in
- I then decided to buy a Raw brokeage CAS just in case mine was having some fluctuation etc.
- Swapping the MAF to MAP so I bought the IAT and MAP 3bar sensor from Haltech
- I have a grounding kit
- Got myself a HPI6 unsure if it's worth installing it.. but got myself new OEM coilpack and harness

So I'm wondering, is it worth swapping the 2 knock sensor to replace the 24yr old one !? Same goes for 02, are they worth it ? is there other sensors that could be wise to swap since they are all 24yr old..

I just wish my car will run smoother in 2014!! arrgghh

Don't know about the Haltech but my Link computer doesn't use the O2 sensor. If your Haltech does then by all means get a new one (or two) if its still using the original ones.

i contacted haltech and their answer was that it would be better to swap the narrowband to wideband.

How about knock, is there a better replacement than oem ?

This is the knock sensor that Link lists - it should work with the Haltech although I am not familiar with the Haltech and don't know if it reacts automatically to the knock info or whether it is just used by the tuner.

http://www.linkecu.com/products/InstallationAccessories/Sensors/knocksensor

Did you read the article I linked? The Platinum Pro ECU allows you to turn the factory sensors off so that you do not have any sensor codes. Narrowband sensors cannot read like a wideband sensor, they only show rich or lean in relationship to stoich for gasoline. You need a wideband sensor before the catalytic converter to be able to properly tune your vehicle.
Kind Regards,
Adam Peeling
Sales & Technical Support - Haltech USA

Not quite sure what you're getting at here. I don't see any link in your posts. Yes I know the difference between narrowband and wideband sensors. I thought we had moved on to knock sensors.

Did you read the article I linked? The Platinum Pro ECU allows you to turn the factory sensors off so that you do not have any sensor codes. Narrowband sensors cannot read like a wideband sensor, they only show rich or lean in relationship to stoich for gasoline. You need a wideband sensor before the catalytic converter to be able to properly tune your vehicle.

Kind Regards,

Adam Peeling

Sales & Technical Support - Haltech USA

Not quite sure what you're getting at here. I don't see any link in your posts. Yes I know the difference between narrowband and wideband sensors. I thought we had moved on to knock sensors.

sorry. i should've introduced my post but this answer was from hatlech tech just in case someone in the futur search for information.. it will be there :)

2x new knock sensors

haltech 02 wideband can kit

new ignitor and coil pack loom

I'd also go with a haltech coolant temp sensor

smoother? check all your intake, pipes, hoses, gaskets, tb shaft seals, idle solenoid etc..

then lots and lots of non-power tuning....

thank you for your answer. this confirm what haltech told me.. I need to buy the wideband kit now! it appears its much easier to tuen wideband than narrowband.

Its not just easier with a wideband, you can't tune with a narrow band.

I need your input again skylines expert!! :D

I need to delete the oem narrowband and fit the haltech wideband system.

Option 1: remove manifold and everything else to swap the narrowband to wideband ( labour approx. 300$) If I need to swap them over later on.. I still have to deal with the removal of everything again.

Do you think I could simply weld 2 bung to my front pipe so it would be easier to swap if needs to be ? Actually it have to be removed because it have to be calibrated air free.

Thanks !!

Why do you need to remove the manifold to remove the O2 sensor? Is it very hard to reach? Normally you would just unscrew the old sensor and throw it away (unless you have recently renewed it) and then screw in the new wideband sensor. There should be no reason to revert to the old sensor as the wideband sensor generally has the ability to also provide a narrowband signal if you need it for some reason. But if you have to remove the manifold then put the new bung in a place where it can be reached without having to remove the manifold and just plug up the old bung.

Why do you need to remove the manifold to remove the O2 sensor? Is it very hard to reach? Normally you would just unscrew the old sensor and throw it away (unless you have recently renewed it) and then screw in the new wideband sensor. There should be no reason to revert to the old sensor as the wideband sensor generally has the ability to also provide a narrowband signal if you need it for some reason. But if you have to remove the manifold then put the new bung in a place where it can be reached without having to remove the manifold and just plug up the old bung.

I could be wrong, i thought the oem bung was on the dump pipe where acces is not possible under the car so the needs to undo a couple parts on top is necessary.

Get a bung welded in. Easiest/cheapest/recommended/ most normal option for fitting a wideband. Too close to the manifold they get too hot, some people are ok with them mounted in the factory location, but pretty much every manufacturer I have seen doesn't recommend that location.

Would you guys keep using my profecb or use haltech own boost controller option ? Since I already have the greddy hooked and work great i wanted to keep it but just curious if maybe I'm missing an advantage of letting haltech control my Boost too.

Don't knoiw how your Greddy works but I use the Link plus a Mac valve to control boost. It uses the air temp sensor and map sensor and is probably much more programmable than a stand alone boost controller. I would think your Haltech would do the same. You just have to buy a Mac Valve and then you can sell your boost controller so $$ in your pocket.

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