Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Complete car, Series 1 R33 gtst

I bought it for the gear box everything is for sale make offers
Ill compression test the motor tommorow
Things that have been sold are:
Brake master band booster
Gear box

Stuff for sale
Diff 200
Rims 100
Head lights 120
Bonnet 120
Ic kit 130
Radiator 110
Brakes 300 front and rear
Hubs 100 a pair
Cool boot lip wing 180
Exhaust 150
Cat 50
Dump pipe 50
Front bar 100
Door 80
Key set 120 for all of them

Anything else just ask

Located lower blue mountains Sydney

Pete
0448468884


post-219-0-35702600-1389432194_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-67510500-1389432223_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-47239100-1389432277_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-38669100-1389432306_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-87327200-1389432333_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-84354100-1389432379_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-16352500-1389432412_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-87648800-1389432449_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-91937900-1389432477_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-26644300-1389432520_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437439-r33-gts-t-wrecking-series-1/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Condition on rims and tyres?

Rears are rs and fronts are 50%

Some genius rattle canned the rims black so they look average

Let me know how comp on the motor comes out. How many kms on it?

Compression was good but a lad turned up and bought it this morning

Also the following has sold

Engine

Front bar

Boot struts

Engine and heater box

Gauges

Everything else is still available

Will you post brakes at buyers expense?

what knob is it?

That's a dangerous question round these parts.

Are the castor rod brackets available?

They will be once I start pulling it apart. Will let you know

How much for the skirts and rear pod (if the driver side is unsalvageable)?

Driver side pod actually looks ok. Not cracked, just a couple of surface marks. $140 if you're local and want to come pull them off yourself or $200 if I have to remove myself and ship them.

I want the Rear water squirter/jet!! PM me with a price including postage

Pm coming your way

Righto, the following parts are sold:

Engine, front bar, brakes, ic and piping, gear knob, boot struts, rear washer, dump pipe, gauges, suspension, ecu, brake master and booster, heater box

everything else still for sale!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...