Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Complete car, Series 1 R33 gtst

I bought it for the gear box everything is for sale make offers
Ill compression test the motor tommorow
Things that have been sold are:
Brake master band booster
Gear box

Stuff for sale
Diff 200
Rims 100
Head lights 120
Bonnet 120
Ic kit 130
Radiator 110
Brakes 300 front and rear
Hubs 100 a pair
Cool boot lip wing 180
Exhaust 150
Cat 50
Dump pipe 50
Front bar 100
Door 80
Key set 120 for all of them

Anything else just ask

Located lower blue mountains Sydney

Pete
0448468884


post-219-0-35702600-1389432194_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-67510500-1389432223_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-47239100-1389432277_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-38669100-1389432306_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-87327200-1389432333_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-84354100-1389432379_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-16352500-1389432412_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-87648800-1389432449_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-91937900-1389432477_thumb.jpgpost-219-0-26644300-1389432520_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437439-r33-gts-t-wrecking-series-1/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Condition on rims and tyres?

Rears are rs and fronts are 50%

Some genius rattle canned the rims black so they look average

Let me know how comp on the motor comes out. How many kms on it?

Compression was good but a lad turned up and bought it this morning

Also the following has sold

Engine

Front bar

Boot struts

Engine and heater box

Gauges

Everything else is still available

Will you post brakes at buyers expense?

what knob is it?

That's a dangerous question round these parts.

Are the castor rod brackets available?

They will be once I start pulling it apart. Will let you know

How much for the skirts and rear pod (if the driver side is unsalvageable)?

Driver side pod actually looks ok. Not cracked, just a couple of surface marks. $140 if you're local and want to come pull them off yourself or $200 if I have to remove myself and ship them.

I want the Rear water squirter/jet!! PM me with a price including postage

Pm coming your way

Righto, the following parts are sold:

Engine, front bar, brakes, ic and piping, gear knob, boot struts, rear washer, dump pipe, gauges, suspension, ecu, brake master and booster, heater box

everything else still for sale!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was 99% sure the standard one is long enough to get there, you might just have to change the throttle orientation. If not, I remember someone having used an r31 cable instead, but that is probably harder to find than r33 by now...
    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...