Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

340kw on -7's?!

It's possible on e85

They are supposed to make about the 310~320 mark on 98 at their absolute maximum (as in, probably shouldn't be running them that high)

On E85... 340 could be achievable but I don't know how maintainable it would be... Could be a happy dyno :P

Back on topic though... I would be interested in finding out how you find the -5's... I have -7's in my car from factory and I think one of them has busted an oil seal... blowing a lot of white smoke under heavy boost. I will be taking them out soon and checking them out and seeing if they are worth rebuilding or upgrading to a -9 or a -5

Heya R34 LINER,

I'm curious to know where did you get your info regarding the max power achievable with the -7s as there's a heap of variables involved!

Dyno was a DynoDynamics in Standard shootout mode (6F with standard 15kph/sec ramp rate), so the number should be pretty reliable.

Mark :)

Hey GOD12A,

Unfortunately the info about the 310-320 number is purely off the many threads and information that I have obtained from mechanics/tuners and owners. This is the number that averages out most commonly and I haven't found any other consistent information that suggests to me otherwise. I should have clarified that that number is maximum for what you would hope to call a safe level? I have no doubt you could wind them up further but I doubt they would last long enough to call them reliable? The comment on the Dyno is just an example of 1 of the many variables as you stated. I have no doubt other people have other experiences that contradict what I have found along the way and I can't claim any of this data is first hand from my own build. I can only base it on what I have found so far. If you have your own experiences that contradict what I have found so far I am more then happy to hear it :) seeing how I am in a position to either keep or upgrade my current -7's I would be very interested to hear...

Cheers,
Aron

Heya R34LINER :)

I'm confident to push the turbos till they stop making power, as long as they have a clean oil and coolant supply with no objects thrown in the compressor cover, they should hold together!

We tuned up to 21psi and didn't find the turbos to be any restriction. We only stopped winding boost into her as the Haltech internal MAP sensor maxes out at 1.5bar (22psi) and I have no interest in a 3bar sensor as it'll tempt me to see how far she'll go (likely ending up with the OE bottom end destroying itself!)

The current power output is fun and thrashable for now, so no use pushing the limits just yet ;)

Mark :)

Now that is interesting...

So just to clarify, how much power are you getting at the wheels? What other supporting mods? (obviously Injectors and Fuel pump but did you go d-jetro or bigger AFM's?)

Heya R34LINER,

340rwkw

OE fuel pump, 550 injectors, Haltech Platinum Pro (MAP, so no AFMs)

Mark :)

hey're cheap enough. Run them hard and if they pop, buy more.

Yea for me its the taking them in and out that is pain in the arse :P trying to do it in the engine apparently is a nightmare and the only other option is to take the engine out soooo rock and a hard place...

OP, if it were me (with a standard bottom end), I'd be putting -9's on it, pegging it at 23 psi or so and make a responsive 340-350 on E85 - seeing that you're going down the E85 route anyway. The car will have much more area under the curve than a -5 car. I really think -5's on a 2.6 are still a bees dick too big. They really need a stroker.

I'd offer my own car up for a drive but my box is

deaded and its not really a fair comparison to what you're going to get with a stock engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...