Jump to content
SAU Community

Oem Sways Vs Whiteline Sway Bars (Pedders)

INSANITI
 Share

Recommended Posts

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

I have Tokico oem replacement shocks, Eibach 1.5" lowered heavy duty springs and Godspeed adjustable front and rear swaybars. I have also changed my lower control arm bushes to Nolathane, changed the lower ball joints to Megan Racing versions and have SPC adjustable rear camber rods.

In my experience coilovers for the V35 are much harder than stock, and for daily duties stock items are firm enough for my liking. I ran some cheapy Chinese adjustable coilovers for a time, and they were utter shite compared to the setup I have now.

JustinVu Enthusiast

JustinVu

Posted
Posted

I have Tokico oem replacement shocks, Eibach 1.5" lowered heavy duty springs and Godspeed adjustable front and rear swaybars. I have also changed my lower control arm bushes to Nolathane, changed the lower ball joints to Megan Racing versions and have SPC adjustable rear camber rods.

In my experience coilovers for the V35 are much harder than stock, and for daily duties stock items are firm enough for my liking. I ran some cheapy Chinese adjustable coilovers for a time, and they were utter shite compared to the setup I have now.

Hey Andrew, im in a big hesitation whether or not buying a camber kit from Godspeed. I heard versatile feedbacks from these Ichiba replica. Some say its s*** some says its worth buying some says you pay for wat u get n hence its each to their own. I intended to buy also the GSP front n rear sway bars but then one gud used Hotchkis set came up n i bought it. Now im about to upgrade my suspension n would like to get a nice camber kit to compliment. Would you recommend GSP ?

Thanks

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

Hi Justin, no I would not recommend Godspeed for camber arms. They are cheap, and for an integral component like camber arms you want better quality. I am perfectly happy with the GSP swaybars, but they are just a piece of tubular metal - not a threaded and adjustable item like camber arms.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

Check on the Stagea forum. Dale (Daleo) sells Whiteline swaybars for V's as well as the various Stagea models.

He provides excellent service & cheaper than in stores afaik.

They made an amazing difference to my cars' handling.

mushilea Explorer

mushilea

Posted
Posted

I was in the market recently for suspension components and did quite a bit of searching/calling around - i'll give you a rundown of where I found mine in case it helps. They may be cheaper than pedders.

1) Whiteline swaybars from GSL RallySport - they had a promotion of 30% off the whiteline website RRP price over Xmas.

2) Whiteline end links from Dale - he gave me a great price!

3) Hard race camber kit - front + rear - Justjap.

4) BC Coilovers - Justjap.

5) Complete set of whiteline bushings, front + back - onlineautomotive. A good $10+ off whiteline RRP for each.

As to the handling improvements I can't say... I'm waiting for the swaybars to arrive until I install the lot. From what I've heard it's a marked difference.

Howaitonaito Mentor

Howaitonaito

Posted
Posted

Well whiteline are solid sways and OEM are hollow. I havent done sways yet, but i have driven a coupe with whiteline sways, BC BR coilovers and front and rear bracing and it was perfect!

I will get around to doing them one day

INSANITI Collaborator

INSANITI

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i have decided not to lower my car as i usually have passengers. I wonder if the whiteline sways still perform better than standard?

or maybe i shouldnt do it at all if i wont up grade my suspension?

Trex Grand Master

Trex

Posted
Posted

I have a c34 so they're set up differently than your car. I've got thicker sway bars F+R and you could feel the weight difference. When i first drove it i noticed the difference in the first turn i took.

I was like you, i wanted better handling without lowering the car so i bought swaybars, and they did wonders! The car was setup perfectly for the street. Obviously I'm looking at lowering it and even better handling now.

ka86 Collaborator

ka86

Posted
Posted

Those with aftermarket Swaybars, any issues with aftermarket exhausts? I know the rear sway bar has one bend for the exhaust but wasn't sure how much clearance there is, say for example the Whiteline bars.

It would depend on obviously on the hangars and exhaust size, I'm yet to check clearance.

:-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...