Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

While digging out my old brake setup I stumbled across a bunch of stuff i had forgotten about and I no longer required

parts are as follows.

1) R34 GTT air conditioning Compressor $50 - In good nick, removed as the car doesn't run A/C

2) R34 GTT Gearbox Crossmember $40 - got it as a spare, but not needed (open to offers)

3) R34 GT gearbox tailshaft $40 - Bought the wrong one and couldnt take it back, just want to move it along

4) R34 GTT bottom INTAKE runners $50 - Bought this to do a custom CPC plenum but never did it

5) R34 GTT Top INTAKE manifold with Throttle bodys and IAC $50 - missing a few hoses which are easy to replace (currently not pictured!)

6) R34 GTT Rear Driveshafts with Stub axles $100 - put a GTR diff and shafts into my housing so these are not needed anymore. No rips or damage whatsoever, have been standing upright for about a year 5 bolt type

All parts located in Penrith Sydney but can be delivered locally to Penrith or Liverpool after 1PM weekdays,

Happy to post these anywhere at aditional cost.

now for the pics

A/C Compressor

mf2fidd.jpg

Lower intake runner

5HeyZOc.jpg

Crossmember side

5qCTAy8.jpg

Crossmember Bottom

QqRf0Uw.jpg

Tailshaft

GARfGJV.jpg

Driveshafts with Axles

uihxuaI.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
×
×
  • Create New...