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Hi there,

I have a RB20DET engine in my Cefy with fully forged internals (mostly TOMEI), and a GT23 series turbo...the ignition coil used is from the VL Commodore which works like a V6 (double ignite)... My question is whether this is ok? or the engine is or will be damaged very soon...this car took part in quarter mile drags as well...and will take part...lol

attached pic of the setup

post-132147-0-85063700-1390387019_thumb.jpg

They aren't vl coils. They are vs. vl has one coil.

People have used them. They won't kill your car, they will work or misfire.

I suppose you recently bought the car? Does it run? Why are you worried?

They aren't vl coils. They are vs. vl has one coil.

People have used them. They won't kill your car, they will work or misfire.

I suppose you recently bought the car? Does it run? Why are you worried?

They aren't vl coils. They are vs. vl has one coil.

People have used them. They won't kill your car, they will work or misfire.

I suppose you recently bought the car? Does it run? Why are you worried?

Yup got it 2 days ago...saw someting different in the rb engine so thort of gettin other peoples experience wit this mod. It givs hel of a power, juz worried if it has any big impact on d engine

r u seriusly gunna rite ur posts dat bad?

It's heaps annoying. Especially when you are asking for help.

Do you have a dyno chart? I'm pretty sure guys make heaps of power with stock coils, so I'm wondering how much you have. In reality replacing failed stock coils with what you have is the cheaper option.

r u seriusly gunna rite ur posts dat bad?

It's heaps annoying. Especially when you are asking for help.

Do you have a dyno chart? I'm pretty sure guys make heaps of power with stock coils, so I'm wondering how much you have. In reality replacing failed stock coils with what you have is the cheaper option.

well i thort this forum was suppose to be one helping another and sharing experiences...no ones puting a gun on ur head to share/help...u can juz read n igore the thread...

Son of rajab.

Much wow.

So English.

lol, i text most of the time so when i type i use the "txt" shortcuts...faster...so now people will help me with my english...hehe

my apologies if it was difficult to understand what i wrote. next time.

well i thort this forum was suppose to be one helping another and sharing experiences...no ones puting a gun on ur head to share/help...u can juz read n igore the thread...

Yeah, I understand that! You will get more help though if people can actually understand your posts and you take the 30 extra seconds to use slightly better grammar.

So do you have a dyno chart, or a time slip? I am interested to see it as I can see an external gate in the photo so obviously you have a bigger turbo on board.

And seriously, does your car stall sometimes? An afm and Atmo bov is a bad combo.

Yeah, I understand that! You will get more help though if people can actually understand your posts and you take the 30 extra seconds to use slightly better grammar.

So do you have a dyno chart, or a time slip? I am interested to see it as I can see an external gate in the photo so obviously you have a bigger turbo on board.

And seriously, does your car stall sometimes? An afm and Atmo bov is a bad combo.

ok, my apologies. I have the time slip, ill try to upload it tonight. I just got this car on monday and trying to sort out papaers and information. I was searching for a forum to share and take some advice and so i ended up here :)

It has a single turbo is GT28, and yes at lower RPM it does stall. but after 2500-3000RPM the turbo kicks in.

So wat would be a better BOV with AFM, i was thinking of Turbo XS RFL or HKS SSQV 4...will that work?

THe ECU has also been modified to suit that coil.

I hope i am trying to make sense?

Stall != lag. When superben asks if it stalls, he means does the engine actually stop running when you lift off the throttle at low revs. You know, the sort of bad behaviour that occurs when you have a venting BOV on an AFM car.

And no, none of those BOVs are worth your money. Just buy a factory RB25 BOV or a GTR BOV and fit it up with the recirc pipe going back to the turbo inlet like it is supposed to be.

Stall != lag. When superben asks if it stalls, he means does the engine actually stop running when you lift off the throttle at low revs. You know, the sort of bad behaviour that occurs when you have a venting BOV on an AFM car.

And no, none of those BOVs are worth your money. Just buy a factory RB25 BOV or a GTR BOV and fit it up with the recirc pipe going back to the turbo inlet like it is supposed to be.

No the engine is good, it does not stop when i lift the throttle.

ok thanks, ill look for those BOV and have it installed.

No the engine is good, it does not stop when i lift the throttle.

ok thanks, ill look for those BOV and have it installed.

what if i adjust the current BOV, tighten it a bit so that the pressure released to the atmosphere is less compared to the current setting. will that lighten the stalling? but at the moment the car does not entirely stop. Only when trying to rev up there is a little lag up to 3000rpm before the turbo kicks in.

what if i adjust the current BOV, tighten it a bit so that the pressure released to the atmosphere is less compared to the current setting. will that lighten the stalling? but at the moment the car does not entirely stop. Only when trying to rev up there is a little lag up to 3000rpm before the turbo kicks in.

or will it help to change the order, TB/BOV/AFM or TB/AFM/BOV? to avoid the lil bit lag on pickup...

I think you're confused about what different terms mean.

Lag (when most people around here use the term) is "waiting for boost". That may be "waiting for boost" when you are at lower revs than the turbo will spool up to - ie, the engine must accelerate naturally aspirated until there is enough exhaust flow to spool the turbo up. Or it might be "waiting for boost" when you have been off throttle, say going through a corner, but the revs are high enough to make boost - when you put the foot back down the delay before it starts making boost is lag. That latter one is the real and only true definition of lag, as originally applied to truly laggy turbo cars like the first Porsche turbos. Lag was a killer back then - you'd come out of a corner, put your foot down and wait and wait and wait and they the car would explode onto boost, swap ends and try to kill you in the scenery.

Anyway, the car not making boost until 3000rpm or so is normal, and as long as it doesn't fart and carry on before it comes onto boost, then everything is fine.

A BOV SHOULD NOT VENT TO ATMOSPHERE if you have an Air Flow Meter (AFM). The car will not like it. The AFM measures the air flow while you're on boost. Then you let the throttle off and the BOV let's a lot of that air out. The ECU doesn't know the air is gone and continues to put the fuel into the engine. This causes, at the least, shitty fuel rich running, and can and will cause the engine to stall - to actually stop running. This is a shitful situation and can be avoided by simply not running a venting BOV.

The BOV is not involved in "lag" at all, so forget about it.

Edited by GTSBoy

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