Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts4 Front Wheels Locking Up


TheSteve
 Share

Recommended Posts

Having trouble with my R32 gts4.. Has rb25 awd and the front wheels want to lock up. I took the awd fuse out and still the same thing.. Just wondering if any1 has had the same problem or ever herd of it before? Also all the brakes are fine and dont lock on

Edited by TheSteve
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I only just bought the the car . Dont know much about them and I drove it from brizzy to warwick not a problem.. Just went to move it in the back yard and it rolls about 3 meters or so then front wheels lock up..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does the 4wd light come on?

Have you tried removing the front shaft (transfer case to front diff)?

You'll need a 12mm ring spanner ground down a little around the outside of the ring to fit over the nuts so you don't round them off. Then spin the front wheels by hand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found it easier to get 2 12mm spanners and use the open end. You'll need to jack the car so all 4 wheels are off the ground, then just spin the shaft with your hand to get all 4 nuts and bolts.

But when the fronts or rears start locking up it sounds like a transfer/diff/elec problem. What size tyres are on it? Are they evenly worn? Have you done an ecu fault read? I don't know much about the subject, but most people have problems when the rolling diameter is different.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't edit my previous post.

I was going to suggest front brakes but you said they're fine. Have you checked the diff and transfer oil?

Also do you have an awd button to lock it? Mine will shudder when it's turned on.

Found this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/391468-centre-diff-locking-and-binding-diffs-ay-low-speed/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will be taking transfer case off tomorrow to suss out... I have four brand new tyres on her and they are 205/45/16... I haven't done a ecu read yet... Also no oil leaks I can find.. Just hoping not running a dry front diff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Missileman ... I spoke to previous owner and he got a new gearbox put in it and that is all he could tell me and it was done by a mechanic... Cheers guys... Will let ya,s know the out come of me problem tomorrow... Have a good1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't edit my previous post.

I was going to suggest front brakes but you said they're fine. Have you checked the diff and transfer oil?

Also do you have an awd button to lock it? Mine will shudder when it's turned on.

Found this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/391468-centre-diff-locking-and-binding-diffs-ay-low-speed/

My S2 RS4S also shudders when the attessa engages. Before my clutch change I searched & searched SAU for the part # for power steering fluid special which is KLF30-0004 (the 4 determines the size of the container in litres) which Nissan only recommends for the use as the correct fluid for attessa actuation.

Nissan doesn't have a listing for that part #. The closest they could give me was Jap spec power steering fluid KLF50.

The old fluid that i bled out was a gold colour. Bled the new fluid right through, & shudder was still evident upon road test. I suspect there might be excess slack in the drive chain which causes the shudder, as grip to the front in the wet is perfect, so clutch packs are doing their job.

Nissan Matic D was used in the transfer case, without any change to the shudder effect.

Ideas anyone???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My S2 RS4S also shudders when the attessa engages. Before my clutch change I searched & searched SAU for the part # for power steering fluid special which is KLF30-0004 (the 4 determines the size of the container in litres) which Nissan only recommends for the use as the correct fluid for attessa actuation.

Nissan doesn't have a listing for that part #. The closest they could give me was Jap spec power steering fluid KLF50.

The old fluid that i bled out was a gold colour. Bled the new fluid right through, & shudder was still evident upon road test. I suspect there might be excess slack in the drive chain which causes the shudder, as grip to the front in the wet is perfect, so clutch packs are doing their job.

Nissan Matic D was used in the transfer case, without any change to the shudder effect.

Ideas anyone???

I was talking to my friend about this last year and he has the same problem. He changed diff oil and was worried the diffs were on their way out. The handbook states that when the attessa button is turned on it will lock into 50:50. So if you have LSD's it would make sense they're shuddering. You will notice it more on wider lower profile tyres.

How were you driving at the time it locked up steve? ie. full lock, straight, did it completely lock up? etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced all drivetrain fluids.

Front & rear diffs are running Castrol Limited Slip 90.

Tyres are a fraction wider, but the overall diameter is very close to stock.

My odometer is out 400m over a 5k distance. So I have to remember those ads on TV, 'wipe off 5' when I see a police car!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 9 years later...
7 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Hah! A guy with 6 posts is not checking his notifications from a decade ago.

Obviously im waiting for the gurus (you guys) to reply, what is more frowned upon, remaking a thread that’s already been made in the past or replying to on old thread. Idk lol 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

I'd start a new thread with a clear explanation of your problem, rather than force prospective helpers to re-read an old thread and fish through whatever has been said in it to work out what your issue is.

Sweet I’ll find time to do that 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Slap a 460L into the car, send its mum.  
    • So last night pulling away from the lights, I lost power for about 1 second. Bit weird, but I kept driving... 5 minutes later the pump completely dies. When I tried to start the car, the pump won't even prime.  I left the car for about an hour, tried to start it and it all appeared fine. Pump primed, car started, got the fuel pressure I should have.... Start driving home, 5 minutes later it dies again. I'm stuck in a shit spot this time going up hill with a car right behind me, so I just let the car continue to turn over while praying to the fuel pump gods. After about 2 minutes of turning the engine over, the fuel pump came back to life and I got home (only about another 5 min away).  So I've been digging around online, it seems like the 525 fuel pumps really don't like to be run at 100% all the time. I've found quite a few examples online of people killing their Walbro 525 pumps within about a year of usage when they are run without PWM.  So, my pump is an Aeroflow 525 (AF49-1057) and I've been running it at 100% without PWM. I'm thinking the Aeroflow 525 didn't like being run at 100% and has burnt itself up.  I really am sick of dealing with fuel pump issues, my current thoughts are -  1. Use a Walbro 450 and run it without PWM. It seems like these pumps hold up pretty well to being run at 100% all the time. I only make about 350kw and can't see me making any more power any time soon so this is probably a fine option.  2. Get a Walbro 525, run it with PWM. I know doing this will annoy me as I feel like with only 350kw, its extra expense that I don't "need" and I'll be thinking the whole time while setting it up that I should have gone with option 1. I know I'll be happy with this option when its setup and running, its only the initial setup frustration and cost as an issue.  3. Get a Walbro BKS1001 brushless pump. This is the fu*k it I'm already going PWM, might as well go full retard. This option just seems better in every way, with the only downside being cost. But I don't know much about this pump so I could be wrong.  Happy to get everyone's thoughts before I go digging around in the fuel tank again. 
    • Doing it this weekend. For sure this time. Thank you forum gods.  And im running map sensor now with the haltech. Still have the AFMs attached to the mushroom dome shaped air filter things
    • Actually, it is probably pretty legit. I mean, it's still woke feminazi bullshit academia, but you would have to agree that it is very likely that there would be a correlation between wanting a loud exhaust and scoring at the unpleasant end of the scales for dark triad personality traits. The fact that they found it didn't correlate with narcissism and only with psychopathy and sadism definitely shows that the loud exhaust thing is more of a "f**k you" than a "look at me", and I reckon that rings pretty close to most of the dickheads who take it to the extreme. Remember, this is correlation with tendency to be closer to one end of a personality trait scale than the other end. Of course someone who is at the literal opposite end of the psychopathy scale is going to be so considerate of others that they wouldn't even think about wanting to upset anyone with a loud exhaust. So the finding isn't that "you are a psychopath". Just that you score more towards that end of the scale than someone who doesn't like loud exhausts (on average, not necessarily even for specific individuals).
    • Blitz ER34 at some point hopefully, should be allowed in Gr3 if they do.
×
×
  • Create New...