Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pics of the shell? Mainly lhr quarter side?

The shell has no dints / bog / rust or anything at all wrong with it.

The bodywork was in great nick before I started pulling it down.

See pics...

post-7819-0-88286500-1393154882_thumb.jpg

post-7819-0-87972800-1393154939_thumb.jpg

post-7819-0-72179100-1393154954_thumb.jpg

post-7819-0-20507200-1393154973_thumb.jpg

post-7819-0-48938000-1393154991_thumb.jpg

post-7819-0-13405300-1393155006_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi there, rear pods still available? What colour are they? and will they fit a S2?

Cheers.

Hey mate, I've still got them but they're on the car and I'd have to get them off without them cracking. They're black and in good condition and I'm fairly sure they'd fit S2 as well. Someone else may be able to confirm for you.

Got the coil pack bracket? Msg on 0497075260 if u do

Fairly sure they went with the coils when I sold them. I'll check tomorrow.

Hey mate. Pic of the leather gear surround? Searchin everywhere for one in good nic lol. Cheers.

Will be able to send you one tomorrownight or saturday.

Got the coil pack bracket? Msg on 0497075260 if u do

Fairly sure they went with the coils when I sold them. I'll check tomorrow.

Sorry, they went with the coils.

Hey mate. Pic of the leather gear surround? Searchin everywhere for one in good nic lol. Cheers.

Will be able to send you one tomorrownight or saturday.

Sorry again, I thought I still had it but it went a month ago with a bunch of parts and the brake boot.

PARTS LEFT

HKS pod filter with adaptor Needs new foam $30

Intake manifold No sensors $40

Engine mounts $40

Radiator overflow bottle $20

Power steering pump $75

Fuel pump No label but was fine for 285rwkw $60

Clutch master cylinder $40

Manual pedal set $60

Tail shafts $70

o2 sensor $40

Front 5 stud hubs $60

Spare space saver wheel $30

Front upper control arms $50

Rear control arms $75

Master brake cylinder $50

Handbrake front section $40

Body shell Still complianced and registerable $250

Rear reinforcement bar $90

Bonnet latch $30

Spoiler - Series 1 No stop light and scratched $30

Bonnet Black - resprayed $120

Boot x 2 $50

Front wheel liner Front RH $15

Series 1 tail light RHS $40

Indicators Nismo Side - clear pair $35

Front Recaro $150

Interior wiring loom $120

IP cross car beam $50

Rear seats $50

Instrument panel Standard black good condition $50

Headliner Excellent condition $30

Pillar trims $20

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...