Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

All im missing is the cover plate though, if it wasnt run before all thats doing is holding the oil not fixing the leak at all....

No, you're missing a myriad of things, go look at the service manual page provided in this thread

yes that entire area filled up with oil, when I took mine out (twice) to do my timing belt and seals, etc.. oil dribbled out.

If you removed the entire VCT sprocket/gear you'll understand how it works.

Im so mindf**ked right now, i understand from after writing the thread im missing parts, but why has it started to leak now, this is what im confused about. ill dig up some pics because maybe i never realised it accually had it on. maybe someone took it off, not me onbviously.....

is that a spring washer? It doesnt look right. The bolt in mine was a flanged bolt (washer attatched to the head basically, the parts pic shows it in this style) with another thickish washer under that.

If it is a spring washer and a normal bolt, someone may have done a dodgy when putting it together.

And because I'm in a nice mood, part numbers and pricing (from Amayama)

Spring: 13072-45V20 ($1.78)

Gasket (O-ring): 13037-75T00 ($1.51)

Bolt: 01436-01011 ($2.92)

Cover: 13083-75T00 ($6.71)

Not sure if Nissan Australia will stock these but worth a try. It will be more expensive locally but

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was wondering about this. I'll do some research.
    • Why not? Since mines been built, I've used low boost maybe 5 times.
    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
×
×
  • Create New...