Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I'm after these tail light reflector covers, but cant find them for sale anywhere on the net. also none on yahoo auctions at the moment.

wondering if anyone know where to get them from.

I've seen a few different ones, but they don't all come down and meet the bottom line of the window and that is specifically what i want.

.2002Axiswithrearreflectorcovers.jpg

I would really prefer to get the covers, rather than vinyl wrap because I would like to get them painted same color as the car.

And as for takeros and freeway dolphin I found one US website that sells them but from the pictures they are look like the shorter ones and don't come all the way down to the window line.

I specifically want the ones that come all the way down to the window line.

They are Takeros series 2 tailight covers, the carbon fiber ones:

http://autostyle-usa.com/?pkey=item_info&i_code=TAK24121840002&maker_url=takeros

The series 1 came halfway down, the series 2 is to the window (hard to tell with the black car in the pic) I can confirm as I have seen these on the silver full takeros kitted m35 that was being sold in VIC last year.

However for the price they ask for them you could get them made locally - or plastidip/vinyl wrap as Scotty & Lakes mentioned, inexpensive and easily removeable.

If you want to go genuine maybe ask someone like Jesse Streeter what he would charge to get you a pair if Takeros still make them?

Edited by Dmyze_

Had a look and they are still listed on the Takeros website and you can get them in FRP for Y12,600 ($135ish AUD) - so you could get them in via streeter or IM, if you do let me know the total to your door, I'd be interested to know!

Edited by Dmyze_

The link you posted for the autostyle website is not the full length ones I'm after, as you can see the full blinker lens, and the blinker lens extends up past the window another 3 inches or so.

I will check out the takeros site in a few hours. If they are available at that price plus shipping, I will gladly purchase.

Hmm, I swear they are full length, but I see what you mean, In that picture I always assumed the blue sticker was on the body not the window, if you go by the lens it does look like you may be right, however why would they have two same length garnishes for sale?

Regardless I did see the full lengths on the M35 I mentioned, and it was all Takeros (looked almost identical to the silver display car on their website without the decals).

Good luck with the search!

sometimes it really looks nice)

3c21f1u-960.jpg

Compare before and after:

a321f1u-480.jpg

80a1f1u-480.jpg

handcrafted in Vladivostok

http://www.drive2.ru/cars/nissan/stagea/stagea_m35/ivano-92/journal/688125/

Edited by Erop

Possible that different 2 sets for sale maybe because 1 is fibre glass/plastic and the other carbon?

^ I thought of that orginally but the Takeros website states that both the V1 & V2 are availible in FRP/Carbon and lists prices for each.

sometimes it really looks nice)

3c21f1u-960.jpg

Compare before and after:

a321f1u-480.jpg

80a1f1u-480.jpg

handcrafted in Vladivostok

http://www.drive2.ru/cars/nissan/stagea/stagea_m35/ivano-92/journal/688125/

Nice! Just need to learn to read russian? I think making the covers look like an extension of the glass looks better than matching them to the paintwork.

Nice! Just need to learn to read russian? I think making the covers look like an extension of the glass looks better than matching them to the paintwork.

Likewise, I didnt really think the white looked all that good - but that looks quite menacing in black!

Had a look and they are still listed on the Takeros website and you can get them in FRP for Y12,600 ($135ish AUD) - so you could get them in via streeter or IM, if you do let me know the total to your door, I'd be interested to know!

i looked on the takeros website, but for the life of me i could not find the longer ones.

if its not to much trouble could you post a link please?

  • 1 month later...

Off cut of vinyl (free), hairdryer, couple of hours on a rainy day. Easy DIY & removable if you want a change.

I did mine years ago & still looks as new. A bit of polish brings it up nice & shiny.

I've now purchased a second set of tail lights , I already have the lens removed. I'm going to do an LED patern inside for the tail and brake lights. And I'm going to get the lens' professionaly painted to match the color of the car so now I have no need for the covers.

I paid $150 for a full set of tail lights, So realistically I have a spare set and it is probably cheaper then buying the covers.

So the set I'm now modifying will have LEDs in them and top half painted silver to match the car and also the section around the reverse light will be silver. And my stock ones are staying as is internally but painted black on the top half.

This way I have a spare set and can mix and match when I want.

I've now purchased a second set of tail lights , I already have the lens removed. I'm going to do an LED patern inside for the tail and brake lights. And I'm going to get the lens' professionaly painted to match the color of the car so now I have no need for the covers.

I paid $150 for a full set of tail lights, So realistically I have a spare set and it is probably cheaper then buying the covers.

So the set I'm now modifying will have LEDs in them and top half painted silver to match the car and also the section around the reverse light will be silver. And my stock ones are staying as is internally but painted black on the top half.

This way I have a spare set and can mix and match when I want.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...