Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Just bought my 90 GTR this month and wanted to get into the forums right away so I can start soaking up some information.

I own a 93 RX7 R1 with a 6.6L V8 with direct port NO2 and a 2004 STi with about 10K in suspension.

When I moved to japan last may I immediately began looking for a GTR as I have always admired them and wanted to experience it, so I ended up locating a 2002 GTR Mspec NUR in millineum jade at an exporter near yokohama and worked out a price. After transfering the full payment I was told that the car was being sold to another customer in NZ even though I had already paid. This started a very heated battle in which I was told by the governing organization for car exporters in japan that the dealer was clearly in breach of the organizations guidelines but they would take no action against the dealer. I later found out that if I had been japanese it would have been a huge deal but since I am american they could care less.

I was extremely put off by this and almost decided to not buy a car at all, until a red GTR came up for sale on base. At 136000k it was almost perfect for what I look for in a car. The only modifications were an intake and exhaust, everything worked with the exception of the interior clock and it was nearly rust free through the entire body and frame.

My plans for the car are to clean and restore the engine bay to stock appearence, upgrade to GM LS truck coils and N1 turbos looking to make 350hp with some nismo supporting mods (I want to build it using mostly manufacturer parts), replace every suspension bushing I can with poly bushings and tighten up the motor and tranny with stiffer mountings to reduce play in the shifter, and finally refresh the paint and body panels (the paint is a bright red respray).

I am looking forward to getting to work and hopefully I can contribute something to forum as well as learn from your experience.

Aaron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439418-90-gtr-in-japan/
Share on other sites

You want to keep it stock, but also put shitty GM truck coils on it with leads hanging off? What's wrong with the stock coils?

If you are in Japan I don't think you will have trouble finding brand new OEM coils.

Got any pics?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439418-90-gtr-in-japan/#findComment-7205101
Share on other sites

The gm truck coils are much better than the stock units, I am willing to make minor sacrifices in brand loyalty for the gain of reliability and performance (although I will be trying to hide to coils and wires as best as I can).

Here is a picture, unsure of the paint code or manufacturer, wheels are volk gtc. post-132840-13928227815511_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439418-90-gtr-in-japan/#findComment-7205107
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

welcome.

as already stated, gm truck coils?

not necessary at 350hp.

ive got 20yr old stock coils igniting 600rwhp.

so, they are obviously more then capable.

dont replace them until your spark runs out.

if pursuing 350hp, the standard turbos should be very close to that.

ive have heard of more, but you may not want to push it.

if aiming higher, then look at turbo replacement.

theres alot of info on this forum, and im sure you'll waste hours reading.

good luck with all your mods, and keep is updated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439418-90-gtr-in-japan/#findComment-7215212
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...