Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTR with Rb26 Head and Rb30 Bottom end.

Out of curiousity do you guys run the adapter plate for the RB26/30 that has the supporting centre that bolts onto the girdle or just the adapter plate that runs around the side?

Had a lil scare , my friend that built my motor said he was talking to hi octane racing and they said two out of all the adapter plates that run around the side have snapped on them... One was 800hp and slicks though and the other one i wasn't sure of the power.

Just want to know your opinion on them. I couldn't see my car getting over 600hp with HKS 2530's.

What one do you guys use?

i'd appreciate your comment... i've got the one around the side, but if there is enough people on here that have had dramas id consider binning it and getting the supporting centre one.

Cheers !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439575-adapter-plate-question-rb2630/
Share on other sites

Ours is the Pro engines one, just went straight on, no mods were needed as its perfectly engineered, templates come with it, very easy to follow, we even thought we found a issue with it and called Greg who was VERY helpfull and pointed out what the issue was and he was 100% correct, problem was us, not his product, its perfect and proven to be perfect.

Get it with the oil pickup from him, we didnt due to the sump design we had, looking back i should have bought his one and did what i needed to it rather than trying to fab one up from scratch which cost a lot more.

Your talking 600Hp, we are talking that in KW on ours.

We were more concerned with using a cast aluminium sump extension to add Sump/diff strength rather than the sheet aluminium ones and Grouted the bottom 3cm of the water jackets to help to strengthen the block.

Tyre grip plays a major part when forces start running through the front diff and sump to twist and break a adapter plate.....not to mention splitting the block....

Edited by GTRPSI

I have the one that bolts to the girdle, if you think buying it is dear wait till you get the machining bill !!

The other style is plenty good enough, I'd recommend you get the one from RIPS with their sump extention

Out of curiosity what do you mean by machining bill?

You talking general machining to the engine or was there machining needed for this type of adapter plate?

The machine work for that adaptor plate, due to having to machine the cradle down till the adaptor sits flush

Yeah this,

I had to machine the block, sump edge

Then take 5 tho off the girdle and torque it down

Then machine the bottom of the girdle for the adaptor plate

Then drill and tap the holes to bolt the adaptor to as well as the sump bolt hole in the block had to be drilled and taped

Then line bore the crank tunnel

Then bore and hone and deck the block

It's a lot of work involved compared to the other one

Had a lil scare , my friend that built my motor said he was talking to hi octane racing and they said two out of all the adapter plates that run around the side have snapped on them... One was 800hp and slicks though and the other one i wasn't sure of the power.

The pro engine ones flex, the block and or sump will crack being of cast material well before the adapter plate does, its quite thick and solid but yet flexable.

Our issue when we received ours was it was bowed a little, greg pointed out it bends easily to shape once bolted down, i just pushed it with my thumb and it sat flat, released my thumb and it went back to its bend, by the time you actually screw/bolt it down its never going to be a issue if i could bend it with my thumb.

We are talking about a 2mm bow in the center here that i paniced over.

He was also fantastic, i worringly texted him on a Sunday over it, he actaully took the time to immediately call me back on his day off, tried what he said on the phone and he was spot on.

No way in the world is it going to break, the block and sump will be permanantly split in 2 before this thing splits, it flexes freely to what its bolted to.

Edited by GTRPSI

You can very easily flatten the plates out in a drill press using a few 2" chocks of wood each side and press with the chuck in the middle using another piece of wood across the width of the plate to spread the load evenly. A few good overbends and it will spring back to flat.

I have the same issue with the plates I make, no soon as they come out of the jig in the CNC mill they spring. But he is right, a few mm in bow can very easily be pushed out by finger pressure, which makes it no problem for 20 x m6 counter sunk screws and the rest that hold the plate down to the sump rails.

  • Like 1

I see that the pro engines sump adapters are now being made by "The Real Steel Group" - anyone had any experience with these guys i.e. are they still just as good as the pro engines units?

http://proengines.com.au/sumpadapter.html

Looks like yours is coming along #@sultanaz, can I ask where you got your adapter plate from?

I dont think their is any diffrence, looks like Greg just let the person/company who he had make them continuing with them.

He never phisically made them, he had them made for himself by this company id say.....

Edited by GTRPSI

I see that the pro engines sump adapters are now being made by "The Real Steel Group" - anyone had any experience with these guys i.e. are they still just as good as the pro engines units?

http://proengines.com.au/sumpadapter.html

Looks like yours is coming along #@sultanaz, can I ask where you got your adapter plate from?

I'd actually like to know myself, my tuner got it for me... But ill ask him asap.

i paid about 950 for it from memory

Edited by sultanaz

You have me worries about this bill now.. are you talking about a platinum racing cradle??

I just sent mine off to the machine shop to get put together I hope I don't get hit with a massive bill

I have the one that bolts to the girdle, if you think buying it is dear wait till you get the machining bill !!

The other style is plenty good enough, I'd recommend you get the one from RIPS with their sump extention

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...