Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've had a read of quite a bit of the catch can setups, however it has honestly left me a bit confused so I just wanted to clarify before I went ahead.

Can you please let me know if the following set up for the catch can is effective from the pics below?

Notes:

Original - 1:

this is how it is currently without the catch can in place.

The green dot means it is blocked off there. The intake manifold has instead been linked to the ViPec ecu.

The green loop means it is connected between rocker covers

The green snake to the right is exhaust side connected to the intake

Original - 2:

this is what the planned hosing will look like. Modified hoses are in blue, green means they're the same as before.

The exhaust side has been re-routed to the catch can

The other port on the catch can has then been routed to the intake.

Cheers all

post-867-0-06434700-1393143504_thumb.jpg

post-867-0-44696500-1393143513_thumb.jpg

Edited by PSIKO
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439589-rb26-catch-can-install-confirmation/
Share on other sites

why not just run both to the catch can? and plug up the intake? this will stop your oil vapour being recirculated through your intake and making everything dirty and lowering your power....not sure if its legal tegal to do this in WA though.

As above ...your plan looks ok. Do you have some form of baffles in your catch can? If not and you are getting too much oil into your intake you might need an additional oil/air separator and/or put some mines baffles in the cam covers or make your own.

why not just run both to the catch can? and plug up the intake? this will stop your oil vapour being recirculated through your intake and making everything dirty and lowering your power....not sure if its legal tegal to do this in WA though.

If the legalities of it all weren't a concern, this would work wouldn't it?

Thanks for the replies everyone.

As above ...your plan looks ok. Do you have some form of baffles in your catch can? If not and you are getting too much oil into your intake you might need an additional oil/air separator and/or put some mines baffles in the cam covers or make your own.

I'm not quite sure, I'll have to contact the people who originally made it and ask them as I can't visually inspect inside it.

So I can keep the other port on the rocker cover intake side blocked off?

And that line from the intake manifold is fine going to the ECU and not connected somehow to the other vacuum lines? Just concerned that I need to connect in the PCV valve to the system, that's all.

Many thanks again!

Thanks for the replies everyone.

I'm not quite sure, I'll have to contact the people who originally made it and ask them as I can't visually inspect inside it.

So I can keep the other port on the rocker cover intake side blocked off?

And that line from the intake manifold is fine going to the ECU and not connected somehow to the other vacuum lines? Just concerned that I need to connect in the PCV valve to the system, that's all.

Many thanks again!

Yep route both cam covers to the catch can and you could block off the pcv valve too. The line going from the intake manifold to your ecu is presumably for the map sensor and should not be connected to any other line.

If it's a Sri catch can there's a hidden breather in the middle on the bottom. Don't know if it provides adequate venting capabilities for a modified engine as the openings very little

Grab a bar, a half inch ratchet extension will do, and gently turn the fittings in the rocker covers to face each other as well. Be careful with how hard you push as the fittings can be damaged if you have to push them too hard. Then you will have one cross over hose between the 2 rocker covers and the 2 outlets facing forward going to the catch can. Makes it look a little less obvious to the boys in blue. They should end up looking like this, bare in mind these rocker covers arent sitting correctly, but i am sure you can see what i am getting at. It just means there is nothing blocked off and it looks neater as well

IMG_7496.jpg

Where the can sits isn't a problem there's enough space there but if you look up the breather on the bottom, the gap between where the tube ends and the top of the catch can is very small compared to the surface are of most breathers which seem to be about -16

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...