Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Std high flow makes 100kws at 3000RPMs and maxing out at 320rwkws on E85. Note this turbo hit 20psi at 3400RPMs, there isn't many turbos out there can do this without chocking the engine tho. Pump 98 fuel usually makes 40kws less. It is cheaper then what cost you to buy a TD06, after testing all this TD06 based turbos, I'm fairly sure it is far more responsive then any thing based in a 10cm turbine and makes more power internally gated.

Added 270214:

labeled dyno reading from 21U high flow internally gated on Stock manifold E85 (take 40kws off for P98 result)

21uhfpowerlabeled.jpg

How does the 2IU highflow compare to the atr43ss1PU?

Looks like they both get full boost at 3400, but the ss1pu has 30rwkw more in it? How much physically bigger is the front cover on the ss1pu compared to the highflow?

What's the difference between the two on the street in terms of driveability?

  • Like 1

I think the SS2 or a OP6 high flow will suit your car better.

Reason is I've found out that your car is a AWD GTS4. By experience not only that they are 12% lake in power to the RWD Skylines, they also run the turbine end hotter. The end result will be more successful with a larger rear housing, that makes the engine much happier too.

Other thing need to be understood is turbocharger isn't magic, making 20psi by 3400rpms requires high exhaust gas velocity in low rpms, which does not satisfy the flow requirement in upper rev range or compensate for high boost. There for most 500HP rated turbochargers kicks in 20psi region around 4000RPMs mark using a larger turbine housing.

Solution on the extreme side is high temperature variable turbine geometry system, heat resistant silicon nitrate ball bearing system and high efficiency compressor wheel (ATR43SS-Alpha system). On this setup we can have 20psi by 3500RPMS, make good power while not chocking the engine. Sadly this turbocharger so far can only work on an externally gated system, complicated to build and expansive.

powerallmarked.jpg

I think the SS2 or a OP6 high flow will suit your car better.

Reason is I've found out that your car is a AWD GTS4. By experience not only that they are 12% lake in power to the RWD Skylines, they also run the turbine end hotter. The end result will be more successful with a larger rear housing, that makes the engine much happier

[[/img]

Is the cost of the op6 highflow the same as the cost of the 2IU highflow? I can't seem to find the 'high flows' on your website?

What's the op6 rated too on e85? Do you have an op6 e85 dyno sheet by any chance please?

Cost to high flow is same.

All the results has been indexed on page one of my high flow thread. Along with many other.

21U result is at:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__7000

Op6 result is at:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-461

Note 4WD systems usually creates a bit more drag, acts very similar to higher dyno ramp. Which usually ends up with better response and less power, probably because the combustion discharging temp is higher under greater load..

  • Like 1

Cost to high flow is same.

All the results has been indexed on page one of my high flow thread. Along with many other.

21U result is at:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__7000

Op6 result is at:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-461

Note 4WD systems usually creates a bit more drag, acts very similar to higher dyno ramp. Which usually ends up with better response and less power, probably because the combustion discharging temp is higher under greater load..

Have you done much testing with the addition of cams regarding boost response?

Can't wait to have an fresh highflow under the bonnet

The cams I used was 264 dur / 9 Tomei from CJmotor, and only CJmotor has them. That was a waste of time and effort, made 3kws of power differences for 400RPMs of lag. For the HP level expected, standard cams works best.

details are at:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-452

The cams I used was 264 dur / 9 Tomei from CJmotor, and only CJmotor has them. That was a waste of time and effort, made 3kws of power differences for 400RPMs of lag. For the HP level expected, standard cams works best.

details are at:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-452

Jeez.... Glad I spent $700 on tomei 256 poncams.... :/

Unfortunately building turbochargers isn't just about turning lathe, people isn't just buying a turbo, they are buying their desired HP goal. Ensuring the outcome I must not only be an excellent engineer, the engineering must be closely related to the power generating subject which on SAU is a Rb25det motor along with all of its components.

Yes I have a book of dyno sheets contain 1806 pages. that recorded the behavior of a Rb25det in many different aspects, its very useful in directing the shortest path archiving certain performance goals.

I think the issue he was mentioning is with VCT off it fudges the figures a fair bit. You can't say a certain set of cams is no good just because it din't work on your particular setup.

I am of the opinion the stock cams are usually the best option anyway... Upgrading cams is the last thing I would suggest, and only on well sorted high power setups. More important is keeping the gas speeds up.

Yes they will have better low range power because nearly every aftermarket cam shift the powerband slighty up but makes more mid to top power

But with staos car setup it wasn't a fair comparison with stock vs tomei cams as the std had VCt and the tomei didn't

I don't know much about rbs but maybe cause the duration or lift VCt is incompatible but it would be better to compare a smaller aftermarket cam with VCt vs std cam then you can say if it's worth changing cams or not so his test was flawed

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...