Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Std high flow makes 100kws at 3000RPMs and maxing out at 320rwkws on E85. Note this turbo hit 20psi at 3400RPMs, there isn't many turbos out there can do this without chocking the engine tho. Pump 98 fuel usually makes 40kws less. It is cheaper then what cost you to buy a TD06, after testing all this TD06 based turbos, I'm fairly sure it is far more responsive then any thing based in a 10cm turbine and makes more power internally gated.

Added 270214:

labeled dyno reading from 21U high flow internally gated on Stock manifold E85 (take 40kws off for P98 result)

21uhfpowerlabeled.jpg

How does the 2IU highflow compare to the atr43ss1PU?

Looks like they both get full boost at 3400, but the ss1pu has 30rwkw more in it? How much physically bigger is the front cover on the ss1pu compared to the highflow?

What's the difference between the two on the street in terms of driveability?

  • Like 1

I think the SS2 or a OP6 high flow will suit your car better.

Reason is I've found out that your car is a AWD GTS4. By experience not only that they are 12% lake in power to the RWD Skylines, they also run the turbine end hotter. The end result will be more successful with a larger rear housing, that makes the engine much happier too.

Other thing need to be understood is turbocharger isn't magic, making 20psi by 3400rpms requires high exhaust gas velocity in low rpms, which does not satisfy the flow requirement in upper rev range or compensate for high boost. There for most 500HP rated turbochargers kicks in 20psi region around 4000RPMs mark using a larger turbine housing.

Solution on the extreme side is high temperature variable turbine geometry system, heat resistant silicon nitrate ball bearing system and high efficiency compressor wheel (ATR43SS-Alpha system). On this setup we can have 20psi by 3500RPMS, make good power while not chocking the engine. Sadly this turbocharger so far can only work on an externally gated system, complicated to build and expansive.

powerallmarked.jpg

I think the SS2 or a OP6 high flow will suit your car better.

Reason is I've found out that your car is a AWD GTS4. By experience not only that they are 12% lake in power to the RWD Skylines, they also run the turbine end hotter. The end result will be more successful with a larger rear housing, that makes the engine much happier

[[/img]

Is the cost of the op6 highflow the same as the cost of the 2IU highflow? I can't seem to find the 'high flows' on your website?

What's the op6 rated too on e85? Do you have an op6 e85 dyno sheet by any chance please?

Cost to high flow is same.

All the results has been indexed on page one of my high flow thread. Along with many other.

21U result is at:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__7000

Op6 result is at:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-461

Note 4WD systems usually creates a bit more drag, acts very similar to higher dyno ramp. Which usually ends up with better response and less power, probably because the combustion discharging temp is higher under greater load..

  • Like 1

Cost to high flow is same.

All the results has been indexed on page one of my high flow thread. Along with many other.

21U result is at:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__7000

Op6 result is at:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-461

Note 4WD systems usually creates a bit more drag, acts very similar to higher dyno ramp. Which usually ends up with better response and less power, probably because the combustion discharging temp is higher under greater load..

Have you done much testing with the addition of cams regarding boost response?

Can't wait to have an fresh highflow under the bonnet

The cams I used was 264 dur / 9 Tomei from CJmotor, and only CJmotor has them. That was a waste of time and effort, made 3kws of power differences for 400RPMs of lag. For the HP level expected, standard cams works best.

details are at:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-452

The cams I used was 264 dur / 9 Tomei from CJmotor, and only CJmotor has them. That was a waste of time and effort, made 3kws of power differences for 400RPMs of lag. For the HP level expected, standard cams works best.

details are at:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-452

Jeez.... Glad I spent $700 on tomei 256 poncams.... :/

Unfortunately building turbochargers isn't just about turning lathe, people isn't just buying a turbo, they are buying their desired HP goal. Ensuring the outcome I must not only be an excellent engineer, the engineering must be closely related to the power generating subject which on SAU is a Rb25det motor along with all of its components.

Yes I have a book of dyno sheets contain 1806 pages. that recorded the behavior of a Rb25det in many different aspects, its very useful in directing the shortest path archiving certain performance goals.

I think the issue he was mentioning is with VCT off it fudges the figures a fair bit. You can't say a certain set of cams is no good just because it din't work on your particular setup.

I am of the opinion the stock cams are usually the best option anyway... Upgrading cams is the last thing I would suggest, and only on well sorted high power setups. More important is keeping the gas speeds up.

Yes they will have better low range power because nearly every aftermarket cam shift the powerband slighty up but makes more mid to top power

But with staos car setup it wasn't a fair comparison with stock vs tomei cams as the std had VCt and the tomei didn't

I don't know much about rbs but maybe cause the duration or lift VCt is incompatible but it would be better to compare a smaller aftermarket cam with VCt vs std cam then you can say if it's worth changing cams or not so his test was flawed

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...