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Hey Guys,

I am rebuilding my BNR32 RB26 motor. I am doing a ground up rebuild from crank up. I am going fully forged pistons with billet conrods etc etc, im not taking any shorcuts but what i need help with is the camshaft. I would like to get a slightly lumpy note can someone give me an idea of which one to get with a reasonably stock head. I have heard the Tomei Poncam 260 degree with 9.15 lift is the way to go as they are a drop in fit? and allow enough room for valve clearance etc.

I truly have no idea about the cams so any feedback is appreciated. I do not want to spend a fortune on cams as i have spent ALOT of money already. Will i need to buy new lifters and springs also?

Thanks!

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Hi GODZIRA83,

I assume you mean forged conrods rather than billet?

I recently threw some Poncam Type-Bs into my freshly rebuilt RB26 (rings + bearings) and was happy with the result in power. When tuning from the old cams we took out a bit of fuel under 4500rpm, but obviously added more above 4500. We shifted the intake cam gear a bit, but I can't remember where it ended up.
The cams didn't affect the idle too much, they sounded nice, but not tough.
So we played with the idle ignition map in the Haltech Platinum Pro to get a nicer idle. Basically we pulled out timing at 1000rpm and added timing at 900rpm, so the car sounds a little tougher than it really is. PLUS, I have a strong background with ported rotaries and love the brap ;)

The end of this dyno vid will show what I mean with the ignition timing.

Mark :)

Hi Mark,

Thanks heaps for your info...(Your Godzilla looks exactly like mine used to with the 34 wheels! :P Sounds good! Well from the verdit i get it looks like Type B poncams are the way to go. Im not too sure the difference of the type a and b but im guessing just the lift or degree?, B would be the more aggresive cam?

And yes forged conrods. I want a lumpy note like you have as too serious a note will attract too much unwanted attention.

Was yours a full rebuild? We have just installed the shelves and brand new crank it spins very freely very nice....we have another debate on which oil pump to install. I have spent a fortune already so i am deciding to go with an N1....instead of standard. Nitto oil pump are far too expensive. Im sure the N1 will do....

Once again thanks for your reply feel free to message whenever you like.

Kind regards,

Mischa

+1 for tomei type B's. Drop right in and give it a hell of a note. I know of 3 GTR's in Canberra (not including mine) that run them and we all love the note. Add a good quality exhaust and they really come alive.

If i had a video i would post it up for you mate. I did a full ground up rebuild on everything running a full nitto bottom end including the oil pump. I would go either Nitto, N1 or tomei for the oil pump.

I would recomend getting a full custom zaust made as you can get them sounding amazing.

Heya Mischa,

The only difference in the Tomei Type-A and -B is exhaust duration (A=252deg, B=260deg)

Don't forget when you drop in the new cams, you'll need to reshim the head, they're not a COMPLETE drop in like some people think!

I refreshed my engine with rings and bearings only. Didn't even require a bore, just a quick hone and she's making 340rwkw ;)

The whole build with all new gaskets, Tomei cams, shims, ACL Race bearings etc was <$3k

There's heaps of info on oil pumps. In my opinion, unless you're going for a Tomei, the factory pump with a billet gear (RENIK or similar) is as good as you're going to get for a factory'ish setup.

Extra oil volume will do nothing unless you're spinning the engine at high revs and have built your engine 'loose'.

But that's my opinion, do your own research :)

If you're running Garrett turbos and OE turbo manifolds, hit them with a die grinder and match port the suckers, there's a bit of material that can be ground away ;)

Drop me a line if you want to chat engine building etc

Mark :)

If you want some good cams, call UNIGROUP engineering and get some of theirs..

You will make more power with better response than with a type B

They even just brought out a set that will give you that "lumpy note"

I'm running the 260 versions on a 2.8, -5's and E85. The lift is 10.85 mm with a much more aggressive ramp rate than a typical "jap cam".

Posted Today, 05:05 AM



are you talking about the unigroups ? better option then the tomei pon cams ? i had these on my old 32gtr they worked well but im looking for something different my engine will just have the stock crank the r33 gtr has. but the rest will be built of course. piggaz do you have a 33 gtr ?? what e85 setup are you using anychance you could pm me with some guides or just fire away here cheers man


I'm running the 260 versions on a 2.8, -5's and E85. The lift is 10.85 mm with a much more aggressive ramp rate than a typical "jap cam".

Posted Today, 05:05 AM

are you talking about the unigroups ? better option then the tomei pon cams ? i had these on my old 32gtr they worked well but im looking for something different my engine will just have the stock crank the r33 gtr has. but the rest will be built of course. piggaz do you have a 33 gtr ?? what e85 setup are you using anychance you could pm me with some guides or just fire away here cheers man

Yeah, the Unigroup cams. You also use the standard buckets, you will need to relieve the head for the lobe and you will need a decent valve spring. Camtech do a spring and Titanium retainer package which is very reasonably priced and will do the job.

The cams are a little pricey BUT you don't have the expense of buying different buckets like you would if you were to run say a Tomei Procam, so it pretty much works out same same.

I do own a 33 GTR.

Fuel system is 2000 cc Injectors, 2 x 044 feed, one 044 lift, 5 litre surge tank.

As for the Poncam's, I believe the 250 "Type R" would be a better cam than the 260. Same lift, less overlap. PM XKALABA about his thoughts of the 250 vs 260. He ripped his 260's out.

As for the Poncam's, I believe the 250 "Type R" would be a better cam than the 260. Same lift, less overlap. PM XKLABA about his thoughts of the 250 vs 260. He ripped his 260's out.

260s if all you want is a tough lumpy note, 250s if you want response and drive

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