Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heard of this , but this one seems to be rand new. I think the remanufactured ones are sold in AUS (i would not buy re manufactured personally)

This is exactly what I was looking for.

There are common upgrades for the RB ( z32 afm , splifire coils etc)

What is the common upgrade for injectors (am I to assume its the 550 Nismos?)

Dont really want to go top feed and have to mess around with brackets. Is there anything else with a proven track record that is drop in?

I started off with nismo 550 but the reason why I did end up going with these 5omotorsport 1000s was due to nismo not going bigger the 740 and theres nothing else really out there in 1000s that will drop straight in as the next step is mucking around putting top feeds in but is a hassle if you still run the standard plenum. But yeah as I said mine have been perfect so far and they idle like the stock and nismo ones did so no problems there.

but but...you said.... but...

Can only speak about z32 application but part number is same.

I do not like the way that they use an oring on an oring to seal the injector into the bucket. That's the first/main issue (again, in z32 application).

Second issue is they cost me 2 engines (1 forged) because 1 was not flowing as it should at higher duty. Issue was masked by the others showing 'safe' afr's.

Not specifically the injectors fault, but I blame them :P

Nismo 555's have been used in z32 for aaaaaaaaages. They are the benchmark for oem replacement, upgraded injectors.

New style nismo 615s have superceeded the 555's AFAIK.

:(

the next step is mucking around putting top feeds in but is a hassle if you still run the standard plenum.

The short 1000's fit under the plenum, no hassles there. Even the longer 3/4 length top feed injectors will fit, depending on the rail. The hassle is getting a reg to suit, as the stock reg won't screw into the rail. (unless you use a stock Neo rail...)

If this is stumping you, stop modifying the car yourself, as it is very basic work imo. Just pay someone to sort it all out for you.

The short 1000's fit under the plenum, no hassles there. Even the longer 3/4 length top feed injectors will fit, depending on the rail. The hassle is getting a reg to suit, as the stock reg won't screw into the rail. (unless you use a stock Neo rail...)

If this is stumping you, stop modifying the car yourself, as it is very basic work imo. Just pay someone to sort it all out for you.

The question is not whether you can or cant the question is if you have an option that will work out cheaper bolt straight in no need for new connectors rails regs why would you bother going top feed route. $650 will get you 1000cc delivered that bolt straight in and do the job well.

The question is not whether you can or cant the question is if you have an option that will work out cheaper bolt straight in no need for new connectors rails regs why would you bother going top feed route. $650 will get you 1000cc delivered that bolt straight in and do the job well.

this. I'm not going for anything to crazy - Im looking for power levels most Skylines owners would laugh at(230rwkw).... why spend more time and effort when I can drop in side feeds that do the same job for cheaper and less work.

this. I'm not going for anything to crazy - Im looking for power levels most Skylines owners would laugh at(230rwkw).... why spend more time and effort when I can drop in side feeds that do the same job for cheaper and less work.

They are doing 350kw on e85 on my setup on my track car so they get put to the test and are performing fine so there is no problems with rhem just cause some high flows are poor backyrd jobs doesnt mean all are.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Grind them off, drill them out. Repair any rust on the other side. Start again from scratch.
    • Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
×
×
  • Create New...