Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb30/25 Head Bolt Problem

JRC

By JRC,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

JRC Rookie

JRC

Posted
Posted

Hey all. I just filled my 30 with oil found a leak at the front cam seals. Then noticed one of the head bolts were missing. I'm currently in the process of removing the head because I believe theres a snapped bolt already in there. My question is is this bolt needed The bolt is the m6 one at the front of the engine. Also is it fine to reuse arp studs and nuts.

I did not assemble this engine first.

post-92679-13939898125867_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440105-rb3025-head-bolt-problem/
Share on other sites
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted (edited)

I am not using that bolt cos I am lazy. Means if I have to take head off I can leave the intake manifold on.

I have no leaks, using fibre gasket is probably helping.

What gasket is in there?

Is it leaking from there?

Yes you can reuse arp studs.

Edited by superben
JRC Rookie

JRC

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the reply. It wasn't leaking from there Just the cam seal. I was more concerned when the engine is under pressure. It Hasn't been started yet. Just don't wanna find a milk shake in my sump when I do.

It's a metal gasket I think 1.3mm thick. I pulled the engine out this arvo anyway. I'm gonna take the intake off first and then consider my options if there's a snapped stud.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

I'd use it on a MLS head gasket. But if you have been running the engine with it like this for a while now then chances are the damage is either already done, or you wont have a problem

Seriously.... the bolt is not that hard to put in, just do it

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

89cal likes using the bolt, I dont! :)

With an mls gasket I would use it. And obviously Nissan put it there for a reason.

So it was leaking from the cam seal with the engine not running? That seal must be totally stuffed!

JRC Rookie

JRC

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All right sorry for the late reply. Just clear to up so confusion. The engine has never been started full bottom end rebuild and freshened head. The timing belt and gears and all the covers were on the engine when filled with oil. the cam seal was not put on by the previous owner I dunno why. The main head studs under the rocker covers are fine Duncan it was just the m6 bolt at the front of the engine that wasn't put in.

Anyway luckily the bolt went straight in after I removed the plenum so glad there wasn't a snapped bolt in there like I thought.

Thanks for the input

post-92679-13941062931364_thumb.jpg

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Obviously its not holding the head on the block, but as far as I'm concerned, if its their you may as well use it.

MLS gaskets need a good seal, every little bit helps :thumbsup:

Are the other 2 installed? I can't remember which way around it is but there is either 2 at the rear and 1 at the front or vise-versa

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...