Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I've gathered items for a rb25de +T build.

Before I get the whole "why not just do a straight conversion ?" I'll just tell you now you can't do it this cheap!!

So far I've acquired a full rb25de neo with 165-170 psi across all 6 and only 120xxx kms on it for $100.

A full rb25det neo intake manifold with injectors and rail etc for $200.

Already got braided turbo lines and a neo factory turbo manifold also.

Will be running a factory op6 turbo and cosmetic 1.3mm head gasket. Oil cooler and relocation kit. Premium pulp and either 25det ecu, IMPUL, nistune or megasquirt and FMIC

Since I don't want to re loom, I've decided to eliminate cold start which I'm not fussed as I've never owned a car where cold start even worked before I got my current r34 lol. So I'm going to buy and bolt up an aftermarket 76-80mm throttle body on the standard intake and re wire the DET TPS to the DE loom. Shouldn't be difficult as both have 6 wires. I'll just need a Pinout diagrams.

Also will need to rewire the IAC valve or delete it though nistune is an optional thought. And re routing water lines may be a bitch.

As for the head, the na neo has smaller intake ports then DET, so decided to get them tapered out and polished to DET neo size to run the gasket and manifold smoothly. Also at the same time, I'm getting the exhaust valve ports die grinded to remove castings to run the bigger DET neo cam or buy tomei drop ins as shimming is the same between both engines.

Anyone done this before that can shed some insight ? Thoughts ? Criticism ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440616-neo-det-build/
Share on other sites

As for the head, the na neo has smaller intake ports then DET, so decided to get them tapered out and polished to DET neo size to run the gasket and manifold smoothly. Also at the same time, I'm getting the exhaust valve ports die grinded to remove castings to run the bigger DET neo cam or buy tomei drop ins as shimming is the same between both engines.

And......there goes the difference in the money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440616-neo-det-build/#findComment-7230365
Share on other sites

If you already had the head off, might as well just get a neo det head instead. You do want to swap out the exhaust side cam as that thing is rubbish (also fixed by getting det head). I very much doubt you want to touch a stock ECU with that setup,I would suggest considering (if within budget) something more programmable (haltech etc). last I checked running RB25 with nistune was not straight forward (most used z32?).

Otherwise i'm interested to see the cost benefit of grinding the DE head, make sure you write every cost down and see what you come out with. keep on with this project!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440616-neo-det-build/#findComment-7230675
Share on other sites

Should have left the head stock for improved gas speed imo. Aftermarket 80mm throttle? lol.

Anyway, isn't this in the big boys section? The NA+T's are usually relegated to the NA section... Like the 10,000 other threads just like this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440616-neo-det-build/#findComment-7230716
Share on other sites

Yes, neo ecus can be nistuned straight up and will do everything I need it to do.

Also, the idea of the 80mm throttle was not for the size as I'll only be running 76mm piping but just to remove the cold start and butterfly etc that's associated with it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440616-neo-det-build/#findComment-7230925
Share on other sites

Also, the idea of the 80mm throttle was not for the size as I'll only be running 76mm piping but just to remove the cold start and butterfly etc that's associated with it.

What are you talking about? There is no "cold start and butterfly associated with it". The cold start stuff is on the back of the plenum. The butterfly on the Neo DET TB is the traction control. If you want to not use it, fair enough, but at least know what it is that you are doing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440616-neo-det-build/#findComment-7230931
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
    • Dang, those BBS are so nice! 
×
×
  • Create New...