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Harro,

Item 1: NPC Carbotic Clutch Disc

Price: $300

Comments:

  • Thought my clutch died, turns out my clutch fork was fractured & my bearing carrier was the incorrect
  • Scott from Western Clutch measured it and said it's about 0.04mm worn only, near new
  • Disc is under 2 years old, has had about under 14000 km street driving and 3x track days, car makes under 200kW

Reason for Sale: Downgrade to a lighter disc that's more drivable for the street

Item 2: Toshi Remapped R33 Series 2 ECU

Price: $300

Comments:

  • Difference is day and night, others will understand
  • AFRs super safe, sits about 11.7~11.8 all the way at 0.9bar - has been taken to the track many times
  • Tuned for full exhaust, front mount, healthy fuel pump, and boost at 0.9 bar, ~13psi
  • Please check your base timing, set it at exactly 15 on idle with the TPS disconnected
  • Will install and check your base timing for free if you're local

Reason for Sale: New turbo & ECU

Item 3: Stock R33 Series II GTS-t Manual Radiator

Price: $50

Comments:

  • Decent condition
  • Doesn't appear clogged or anything

Reason for Sale: hast tag becauseracecar lol

Item 4: Stock R33 Series II Front and Rear anti roll bars / sway bars with bushing & brackets

Price: $80

Comments:

  • Decent condition
  • No cracked bushing

Reason for Sale: hast tag becauseracecar lol

Link to other stuff for sale too:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/433062-fs-syd-r33-gts-t-part-brake-pads-subframe-collars-wheels-gauge-holder-misc/page-2

Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166

Contacts: PM or Reply Here

As always, will trade for beer and/or alcohol too :woot::woot:

Item 5: Stock R33 Series II Stock Turbo


Price: $250


Comments:


  • Comes with elbow
  • Has minimal shaft play
  • No funny oil leaks
  • Exhaust wheel has not fallen off yet LOL

Reason for Sale: hash tag becauseracecar lol


buy my shit, will trade some stuff for:

  • 2x NEW Nitto NT-05 in 255/40/17
  • 6x 1000cc OR 1200cc sidefeed injectors

What has been done to the ECU? Was it socketed for a programmable EEPROM or Nistuned?

hey mate!

Socketed ECU with a reprogrammed ROM

Don't think anyone has installed the new Type 6 Nistune for R33 ECUs yet, I know a few of the Stagea boys have though.

Yeah I have done up a Z32 ECU with a Nistune board... but I thought a quick ECU swap for more boost would be a nice thing. I don't have the cash for a tune (and possibly never will) and i'm maxing out the AFM at 11psi. =-/

MMMMM will the clutch plate work in a jim berry pressure plate

Dooo it!!!!!!!!

Also ECU sold :)

MMMMM will the clutch plate work in a jim berry pressure plate

Can't see why not? After all NPC pressure plates are modified Exedy covers :)

Dooo it!!!!!!!!

Also ECU sold :)

Dammit...snooze you lose :domokun: was about to PM you :( Mayb I should just keep saving and go the way of a PowerFC.. Goodluck with selling rest of your goodies

Dammit...snooze you lose :domokun: was about to PM you :( Mayb I should just keep saving and go the way of a PowerFC.. Goodluck with selling rest of your goodies

buy my adaptronic ECU and it will come with a free modded car for $12k :)

I like breasts

Stock Turbo & Dump $250

Clutch $200

Stock ABS Diff $250

Stock Rad $20

New Braided Oil Feed $50

Stock Front and Rear Sways $40

Stock S2 AFM $50

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  • Latest Posts

    • Great work! Thanks for documenting the process.
    • How would you even adjust the clutch if the pedal already has the correct free play? The operating cylinder has no adjustment in mounting position or rod length. On pull style clutches there is also no ability to adjust the bearing carrier. Push type I can see how adjusting the carrier height makes it all work.   If this is the twin plate clutch did you verify that your friction disks were oriented correctly? It's not mentioned in the directions at all you just have to notice that one side the friction disks have a part number on the hub fingers and a subtle coning to those fingers. Another thing that I noticed was if you put the friction disks in backwards the pressure plate fingers will not be even and flat when the clutch is installed.
    • yeah, mechanically, it is probably do-able, off the top of my head, there would be the transfer case, which I believe will bolt up to the rear of the RWD transmission, the shorter rear tail shaft. A front drive shaft, front diff, engine upper sump, front drive shafts, front hubs and front AWD struts (they are shaped around the front drive shafts), LCAs (at the very least from the front suspension) oil cooler.  You might want the rear diff from an AWD too, so you can be certain the front and rear diff rations are identical.  Who knows what brackets and mounts you might need.  So a whole doner car might be the best option if you need to maintain RHD. Then actually making it work, that would be a whole different story.
    • Take the fall as a warning sign for future endeavours  Stay safe mate
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