Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I thought I would post up my existing bolt ons

Nismo s tune coil overs

Hks hard pipe kit

Arc intercooler

Greedy rad

3 inch stainless exhaust

Pfc dj and hc

Thats all I can think of for now and its allready been added to as above ^^^

little update on my clutch it was sent to jim berry race clutches in brisbane to get built , i have used him before when i built my 32 gtr and the clutch was awesome. It has arrived there at his workshop problem is the flywheel that came off my engine is a nismo light weight item jim berry has always recomended not go a light weight fly wheel ever !

He told me to source an rb 30e fly wheel if possible he said these are the best and are stronger than all the r32 gts t ,gtr , r33 gts t , r34 gtt flywheels.

so i took his advice on that and have purchased one i found on gumtree on the goldcoast and he is sending it to jim tomorrow.

Once the fly wheel is machined i will have jim send it to rob in nz so he can balance it with the engine.

I picked up this type s tomei fuel reg with fuel press gauge today .

For my fuel setup I was thinking of running a walbro 460 l p/h e85 fuel pump and 2000cc xspurt injectors and this fuel reg above with stock fuel rail.

Im still unsure if I have to change fuel lines for e85 Can someone tell me . And also how much modification is needed to fit the in tank walbro pump.

post-59423-13961101233046_thumb.jpg

Ive got a similar setup going into my s15. 25neo though

same pump and reg, bosch 2000cc injectors etc

fuel lines shouldnt need replacing but while the motors out it can be a good idea to replace the rubber hoses. cheap enough from auto stores.

if its anything like a silvia the pump should pretty much attach the way the stock one does.

Edited by n_D
Ive got a similar setup going into my s15. 25neo though

same pump and reg, bosch 2000cc injectors etc

fuel lines shouldnt need replacing but while the motors out it can be a good idea to replace the rubber hoses. cheap enough from auto stores.

if its anything like a silvia the pump should pretty much attach the way the stock one does.

Cheers .

Finaly got around to stripping down motor head is off and strapped to pallet ready to send to kelford cams in nz . Sump and all bottem end accessories that rob requires for the 30 bottem end are also packed up all bolts and nuts bagged up and labeled

I will send off monday hopefully

My next mission is to detail engine bay , replace all fuel lines and fit my new trust 16 row oil cooler kit.

post-59423-13966918012687_thumb.jpg

post-59423-13966918537912_thumb.jpg

post-59423-13966918743099_thumb.jpg

post-59423-13966918941341_thumb.jpg

post-59423-13966919147398_thumb.jpg

post-59423-13966919341598_thumb.jpg

post-59423-13966919620961_thumb.jpg

my full gt3582 r turbo setup has arrived with 6 boost manifold 44 mm turbo smart ex gate,3.5 custom dump /front pipe and screamer pipe

my head has been sent to kelford cams in nz to get all the machine work done . also have sent my sump and diff and a few other bottem end pieces to rob at rips racing in nz.

things are coming along and moving fairly quickly rob has already started on my block as of 2 weeks ago.

my next decision is what what colour to paint the engine covers and inlet manifold anyone got any ideas ?? as you can see its like a candy red now

Ok guys I previously posted this in the wrong section from now on with my build I will put my questions here

As stated before I have removed my 26 out of my 33 stripped it down and sent parts away to rips in nz ro build my 26 30now I have thrown away the heat exchanger and im fitting an rb20 filter housing .

How do people configure these hoses just join them together ?

Also im running a single turbo now im unsure where to pickup my water supply and return and what to do with the original hosing under stock inlet manifold. ?

I picked up this type s tomei fuel reg with fuel press gauge today .

For my fuel setup I was thinking of running a walbro 460 l p/h e85 fuel pump and 2000cc xspurt injectors and this fuel reg above with stock fuel rail.

Im still unsure if I have to change fuel lines for e85 Can someone tell me . And also how much modification is needed to fit the in tank walbro pump.

Regarding fuel hoses, teflon braided are a good idea but not necessary. IMO if you're spending an obviously large amount of money on your setup, what's another $200 for lines and fittings? Makes working on it a hell of a lot easier too. Regardless, there is one hose that is ABSOLUTELY necessary to change if you're going to be using E85, and that's your in-tank hose from your fuel pump to your fuel lid. Regular fuel hoses are only coated on the inside and generally work ok with E85; this hose needs to have the coating on the outside too. Gates Submersible is the stuff you want there. Don't use braided in-tank, the ethanol will eat the braid.

The Walbro 460 is easy enough to fit, half hour job. The cradle will need a bit of modification as the pump is taller than the stock one, so you will need to cut off about an inch of the hard line to fit it in. I'd also recommend running larger gauge wiring direct to the pump, don't use the stock wiring harness. These pumps draw a lot of current and will melt your plug.

  • Like 1

Regarding fuel hoses, teflon braided are a good idea but not necessary. IMO if you're spending an obviously large amount of money on your setup, what's another $200 for lines and fittings? Makes working on it a hell of a lot easier too. Regardless, there is one hose that is ABSOLUTELY necessary to change if you're going to be using E85, and that's your in-tank hose from your fuel pump to your fuel lid. Regular fuel hoses are only coated on the inside and generally work ok with E85; this hose needs to have the coating on the outside too. Gates Submersible is the stuff you want there. Don't use braided in-tank, the ethanol will eat the braid.

The Walbro 460 is easy enough to fit, half hour job. The cradle will need a bit of modification as the pump is taller than the stock one, so you will need to cut off about an inch of the hard line to fit it in. I'd also recommend running larger gauge wiring direct to the pump, don't use the stock wiring harness. These pumps draw a lot of current and will melt your plug.

Cheers mate im an auto sparky so yeah will deff do the relay and wiring . So if I replace the old fuel lines with new normal fuel line that will be ok hey . And just use gates sub in tank hey

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...