Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Will be detailing engine bay over the w.e quick question about re locating power steer resivour who has done it and do you just remove the charcoal canister and block off pipe going back to fuel tank ?

post-59423-13990434756847_thumb.jpg

post-59423-13990434884078_thumb.jpg

I have my power steer resivour in front of the radiator mounted to the support I got the idea from a 32 at powercruise. I have the plastic bottle and the feed hose to the pump runs under the radiator and haven't had any problems at all.

  • Like 1

Onto the fuel setup as you can see I have fitted a type s tomei fuel reg. I have replaced all the fuel lines . Except the one that has to be submersable in the fuel tank to withstand e85 fuel

I am going to run the new walbro and install it soon . do I really need a catch tank for my setup to support e85 at 600 whp ? ? Or will the walbro keep up on its own obviously with big injectors

And I was thinking of running the stock fuel rail will there be a disadvantage over an aftermarket twin entry rail if so what fuel rail should I purchase. And with running the fuel lines as twin entry do they just go from each end of the rail and join into one somehow and go to fuel filter ?

Fitted my greedy oil cooler on drivers side today had to do a little modification to mounting bracket because i no longer have stock intercooler ,still need to fit up all the lines I had to remove stock bovs

Now in the instructions for the kit it has trust bovs fitted the stock bovs will not fit with the cooler I yhat location seen as though im running a single turbo do I need 2 bovs ? Or just fit 1 in its place if so what type im not into the wanky bov noise .....

post-59423-13995214836723_thumb.jpg

Stock BOV's. Leave them alone. They do the job, spend the money elsewhere.

I have already removed them to fit the oil cooler as per grex instructions to fit it drivers wheel arch.

So I need a different bov to fit its the only reason I removed them so the cooler would fit . As im running single turbo do I only need one bov

My opinion for the fuel system is to run a surge that way no mater what fuel level you have in your tank you always have a good constant, pressurised supply of fuel to the engine

I would advise throwing a dual entry fuel on it aswell me and the girlfriends car needed dual entry rails at 460rwhp on united p100

the tuner said it wasn't a issue with the presure it was an issue with volume I ended up running from my 2lt surge with a 044 fuel pump -10 tefflon braided supply line to regulator.

I then ran a -8 tefflon braided return line to the regulator

I then ran 2x -6 or -8 (cant remeber what size I think it ws -8) teflon braided lines to each end of the rail

and a return fuel line from the middle of the rail to the regulator

for 600rwhp on E85 you will need high volume and good pressure so it may be worth running 2x 044 pumps and a walbro intank lift pump to keep the surge well supplied with fuel

I've just upgraded from a Walbro e85 pump to a surge tank and twin 044's. Car was making 588hp on the Walbro but it was leaning out up top. I wouldn't push one of these walbros past 500-520hp. If yours chasing 600 or more I'd look into an external setup. For the extra bit of cash it's worth making sure the motor doesn't lean out and wreck what you've just built

  • Like 1

If you have blocked off your charcoal canister, make sure you have it venting somewhere. I just left mine open to atmosphere at the back, though can't say I highly recommend doing that, E85 being hydroscopic and all. Your fuel tank needs to vent though.

I've just upgraded from a Walbro e85 pump to a surge tank and twin 044's. Car was making 588hp on the Walbro but it was leaning out up top. I wouldn't push one of these walbros past 500-520hp. If yours chasing 600 or more I'd look into an external setup. For the extra bit of cash it's worth making sure the motor doesn't lean out and wreck what you've just built

I have a 044 intank now

So if I just run a surge tank and two more 044s ? External osnt that overkill has anyome got a r33 gtr and where do they mount the surge tank ??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...