Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pretty much as the title says. It's and auto s1 stagea but still just a 25. All stock except bov have been plumbed up. had this issue before I did that. Read heaps of forums and did most of the things suggested (cleaning aac etc) afm seems fine but hard to call. Any ideas? It's drivable but will stall out when you back off at a slow rolling speed so I pretty much idle through carparks.

have you set your idle correctly? get the car up to temp stop the car...unplug the tps....start the car...turn the idle screw on the aac valve till you have it idling at 750. turn car off...plug the tps back in.....if it still runs like shit after that it could be your tps.

Cheers badgaz will do that in the morn. Bov has been deleted completely and made a new intake pipe

Why?

Put recirc bov back on.

The reverb screws around with the airflow meter reading leading to the issue you have described.

Well, your initial post isn't particularly clear. I suppose you are in a rush for people to help fix your problem.

Somehow bov plumbed up equals blocked off?

Was it previously the stock bov recirculating as per stock?

I usually pretty much idle through car parks also, lots safer than boosting through them.

Superben. Firstly thanks for a mature comment. the engine was completely stock in every way and had the ssame issue. As for the bov, New intake pipe deleted that line, blocked other lines and put a plate over the bov where it goes into the manifold.

It's not the issue.

As for idling through Carparks I have no issue with that. It's a daily running stock boost. It IS drivable. just any speed below around 50km if you completely release the throttle it will die the revs down to almost a stall.

Productive comments are appreciated. if not fk off to boostcruising. Cheers

Typical as the new guy to a forum you would ease into things before potentially offending knowledgeable people who were willing to take their time to help you.

It's pretty hard to judge someone's true character based on a few (or even alot) of posts.

Not sure if your trying to have a dig or not. Signed up and posted in hope of getting some useful feedback from other owners, which in fact I got. The other comments are useless and there's no need for them. I referred to boostcruising for obvious reasons. I thought maybe a website dedicated to specific cars might have been a little different. Maybe your all having a lend and think it's funny? Sorry can't tell, this is text after all. I have stated that positive feedback is appreciated and will continue to thank those who are actually knowledgeable and offering their help.

+1 for BOV not helping the situation.

I have an auto R33 atm and since putting a Blitz atmo on back off it almost stalls. But I live with it for the hektik doses it does :yucky: ..

I'd be pressure testing the system for leaks as they will also create stall issues along with the bov set-up..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
×
×
  • Create New...