Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is most likely hoses on the wrong way after rebuild, go back and recheck your work

Has it worked at all in its current state, if so it could be a faulty solenoid, if not then check the hoses are right

To check actuators you have to apply air pressure at different levels and measure how far the arm has moved on both to make sure they have moved the same difference, manual bleed valve will not fix this, this will most likely not limit you to 16psi either

You will also need to check preload on the actuators, done the same way as above, but this time record the movement vs pressure appied, IIRC they should start to open about 2psi under what they should set at and be fully open about 7psi over, this is because they don't have the manifold pressure pushing the gate open internally, I could be a bit off with these as I haven't done it in a long time, and this is most likely the problem

Not enough air flow would result in over boosting as it doesn't have enough air to open the gates and shut gates means no bypass which gives to much boost

What happens if you turn off the boost controller

Not my work! It is connected now, just working on 16lb, not what I want it to be which is 20+.

Is there a way to diagnose a faulty solenoid. Can I force a signal into it and check it for, I dunno, clacking noises.

Switching it out for a known working one is the best/easiest way if you can get one

What does it make with the controller off, or if you put a joiner where the solenoid is

Has this boost controller worked prior to this or is it a new fit and never worked right

Switching it out for a known working one is the best/easiest way if you can get one

What does it make with the controller off, or if you put a joiner where the solenoid is

Has this boost controller worked prior to this or is it a new fit and never worked right

1. I dont have one and live handy to approximately no one (Country WA). Other wise a simple replace piece by piece would be the go.

2. NFI.

3. Well it is a bit of a saga. Used to work but only at 16lb because that is what I previously wanted to run. Wanted to screw the thing up now but now it turns out it wont build boost. If it is fkd then for exactly how long it has been like that is anyones guess. The thinking was it was the stock actuators that were the problem. Replacing them was supposed to fix any boost spike issues but clearly hasnt.

As I said the easiest and quickest way to problem solve this is to get a manual bc, pre set boost with a compressor ,plug it in and see if your car boosts to that level. If it does send the ebc away to get fixed. Just make sure knock and boost cut management can protects things in case. 1 hour job.

How exactly do you set a manual bleed valve with a compressor ?

And if you can do it that way how does it allow for the pressure in the manifold trying to push open the wastegate flap ?

With the controller turned off it should run up to wastegate pressure, what happens when you do that, or is that when you get 16psi ?

My guess is still the hoses have been done the wrong way, get the operators manual and double check their on the right way

it was a joke in response to this:

3. Well it is a bit of a saga. Used to work but only at 16lb because that is what I previously wanted to run. Wanted to screw the thing up now but now it turns out it wont build boost. If it is fkd then for exactly how long it has been like that is anyones guess. The thinking was it was the stock actuators that were the problem. Replacing them was supposed to fix any boost spike issues but clearly hasnt.

This may be the problem do you think?..and seeing it holds 22psi without the bc.

If you want more power, you need more boost. If you want more boost, then its time to start playing around with your EBC. Or get a different tuner that can actually diagnose these things.

If you run 22 psi on actuator pressure, then your problem is your EBC, thats it.

I couldn't get more than 15 psi out of my GT3076R

problem was stock actuator (genuine Garrett)

replaced it with a 18 psi large can actuator from ATP Turbo

can get 26 out of it now

Has HKS actuators. I was told I needed to replace the stockers which I did. Still no more boost.

Has HKS actuators. I was told I needed to replace the stockers which I did. Still no more boost.

How much preload? Trent used to recommend 10mm as a starting point. Did you check they're operating in unison?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...