Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is most likely hoses on the wrong way after rebuild, go back and recheck your work

Has it worked at all in its current state, if so it could be a faulty solenoid, if not then check the hoses are right

To check actuators you have to apply air pressure at different levels and measure how far the arm has moved on both to make sure they have moved the same difference, manual bleed valve will not fix this, this will most likely not limit you to 16psi either

You will also need to check preload on the actuators, done the same way as above, but this time record the movement vs pressure appied, IIRC they should start to open about 2psi under what they should set at and be fully open about 7psi over, this is because they don't have the manifold pressure pushing the gate open internally, I could be a bit off with these as I haven't done it in a long time, and this is most likely the problem

Not enough air flow would result in over boosting as it doesn't have enough air to open the gates and shut gates means no bypass which gives to much boost

What happens if you turn off the boost controller

Not my work! It is connected now, just working on 16lb, not what I want it to be which is 20+.

Is there a way to diagnose a faulty solenoid. Can I force a signal into it and check it for, I dunno, clacking noises.

Switching it out for a known working one is the best/easiest way if you can get one

What does it make with the controller off, or if you put a joiner where the solenoid is

Has this boost controller worked prior to this or is it a new fit and never worked right

Switching it out for a known working one is the best/easiest way if you can get one

What does it make with the controller off, or if you put a joiner where the solenoid is

Has this boost controller worked prior to this or is it a new fit and never worked right

1. I dont have one and live handy to approximately no one (Country WA). Other wise a simple replace piece by piece would be the go.

2. NFI.

3. Well it is a bit of a saga. Used to work but only at 16lb because that is what I previously wanted to run. Wanted to screw the thing up now but now it turns out it wont build boost. If it is fkd then for exactly how long it has been like that is anyones guess. The thinking was it was the stock actuators that were the problem. Replacing them was supposed to fix any boost spike issues but clearly hasnt.

As I said the easiest and quickest way to problem solve this is to get a manual bc, pre set boost with a compressor ,plug it in and see if your car boosts to that level. If it does send the ebc away to get fixed. Just make sure knock and boost cut management can protects things in case. 1 hour job.

How exactly do you set a manual bleed valve with a compressor ?

And if you can do it that way how does it allow for the pressure in the manifold trying to push open the wastegate flap ?

With the controller turned off it should run up to wastegate pressure, what happens when you do that, or is that when you get 16psi ?

My guess is still the hoses have been done the wrong way, get the operators manual and double check their on the right way

it was a joke in response to this:

3. Well it is a bit of a saga. Used to work but only at 16lb because that is what I previously wanted to run. Wanted to screw the thing up now but now it turns out it wont build boost. If it is fkd then for exactly how long it has been like that is anyones guess. The thinking was it was the stock actuators that were the problem. Replacing them was supposed to fix any boost spike issues but clearly hasnt.

This may be the problem do you think?..and seeing it holds 22psi without the bc.

If you want more power, you need more boost. If you want more boost, then its time to start playing around with your EBC. Or get a different tuner that can actually diagnose these things.

If you run 22 psi on actuator pressure, then your problem is your EBC, thats it.

I couldn't get more than 15 psi out of my GT3076R

problem was stock actuator (genuine Garrett)

replaced it with a 18 psi large can actuator from ATP Turbo

can get 26 out of it now

Has HKS actuators. I was told I needed to replace the stockers which I did. Still no more boost.

Has HKS actuators. I was told I needed to replace the stockers which I did. Still no more boost.

How much preload? Trent used to recommend 10mm as a starting point. Did you check they're operating in unison?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...