Jump to content
SAU Community

Why Do Gtr's Seem To Be Advertised With Lower Mileage Vs Same Age Gtt's?

ned
 Share

Recommended Posts

ned Enthusiast

ned

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi there,

in the ongoing discussion on the miracles of sea travel as a cure for aging (a slow cruise from Japan to Australia seems to take years worth of driving off), it struck me that there was a big difference between the km's showing on GTT vs GTR cars of the same era. So i did a bit of late night research and captured a sample set of ~ 230 R34 vehicles.

Average km's driven by GTT's 1998 to 2002 = 7797km/yr

Average km's driven by GTR's 1999 to 2001 = 4672/yr

This doesn't seem like a great difference yet for some years there is an average of half the km's advertised for GTR's compared to GTT's. There's also a strange effect that later model vehicles are offered showing higher average km's than earlier models.

Published for comments and discussion.

GTR Count km/yr GTT Count km/yr

1998 0 114675 84 7167

1999 58159 13 4274 120755 54 8050

2000 100000 1 7143 111338 54 7953

2001 65140 8 5011 118364 17 9418

Average 66115 22 4672 116978 127 7797

No i'm not a dealer but wanted to understand where my car sat.

Cheers

Ned

post-539-0-91832400-1397014897_thumb.jpg

Edited by ned
Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

90% are altered. Your research is futile unless you have the true km.

But if they were true, I would say it is due to a gtr being majority a weekend car and a gtt to be a every day car.

The one does cost 4 times as much as the other after all

JimmyRickard Mentor

JimmyRickard

Posted
Posted

They also probably don't bother with winding back GTST's where as GTR's are a lot more desirable with low kms.

I don't think I've ever seen a GTR at the dealers with over 100,000kms

ned Enthusiast

ned

Posted
  • Author
Posted

They also probably don't bother with winding back GTST's where as GTR's are a lot more desirable with low kms.

I don't think I've ever seen a GTR at the dealers with over 100,000kms

I did note that dealers GTR's were all around 50-60,000 km but GTT's at dealers could be 90-120,000 km

GTR-34A Mentor

GTR-34A

Posted
Posted

where are you getting the data from? carsales in australia?

your better off basing the data from japan so you get a better idea of actual kms

http://www.japaneseusedcars.com/auction/auctions_results.htm

search through these and you will see there is plenty of GTRs with close and alot more than 100k kms..

st4me Rookie

st4me

Posted
Posted

They also probably don't bother with winding back GTST's where as GTR's are a lot more desirable with low kms.

I don't think I've ever seen a GTR at the dealers with over 100,000kms

It's all to do with winding back surely. Nothing to do with the cars themselves and how they've been driven. Just it might seem a bit more plausible that a GTR has been a weekend car, so they'll wind 'em back to 80,000 odd and hope to get a pretty penny from some poor sod. It's not as believable that someone has kept their GTT in the shed as a weekend car - especially when quite a few are autos on Carsales too.

(I'd keep an Auto GTT in my garage for weekends tho... Still a very fun car)

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted (edited)

The R32 GTR has done 3,330kms per year on average for the last 3 years (weekender)

Prior to that it was mostly off the road since 2006. (2 engine rebuilds and many modifications including a respray)

I bought it with appx. 100,000 on it late 2003.

So it has done on average

10,000kms per year for 10yrs in Japan (providing clock not rewound)

1,000kms per year for 11yrs in Australia (10,005 in the last 3)

KM's on clock as said above does not indicate how the GTR has been treated.

(my daily IS an auto 34GTT high flowed :) ) 140,000kms on odo

Edited by Sinista32
djvoodoo Experienced

djvoodoo

Posted
Posted

KM's of R3' series Skyline is pretty much all Bullshit in Aus.....

I imported my 34GTR with 107,000KM's on the clock and it's in better condition than those of half that :-)

If you look on Carsales even R35's these days have between 20-50,000 KM's on them from 2009. The chances of getting an R34 with a genuine 50thou is unlikely, and you'd be paying a pretty penny for it.

But on topic, GTR seems to be locked away in garages and only brought out on weekends. GTT is seen more as a daily drive

ned Enthusiast

ned

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

where are you getting the data from? carsales in australia?

your better off basing the data from japan so you get a better idea of actual kms

http://www.japaneseusedcars.com/auction/auctions_results.htm

search through these and you will see there is plenty of GTRs with close and alot more than 100k kms..

Yes all data was from Australian sites (Carsales / Drive / Gumtree) as when I mention the km's on mine (100,000 km plus for a 1999) I often get strange comments about how high it is ....."because I saw one with XXXX km for sale recently"...

I just thought I'd put some actual data behind a suspicion I had that GTR's get more "polish" before arriving than GTT's.

But maybe all the comments are wrong and they ALL only get driven on the weekends?

Edited by ned
ned Enthusiast

ned

Posted
  • Author
Posted

where are you getting the data from? carsales in australia?

your better off basing the data from japan so you get a better idea of actual kms

http://www.japaneseusedcars.com/auction/auctions_results.htm

search through these and you will see there is plenty of GTRs with close and alot more than 100k kms..

Hey GTR-34A thanks for the link, i just had a good look at this site and its a good read! Do you know why so many R34 GTR's on there would be sold with no mileage readings?

GTR-34A Mentor

GTR-34A

Posted
Posted

no problem,

yea i did notice that, not sure why... maybe its just a hole in their records...

pretty handy to see what cars are selling for though... and to compare what actual genuine 50k kms car sell for in japan, and see what the dealer advertises them for over here... easy to tell things dont quite line up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...