Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You will definetly get 400rwkws out of the upgraded low mounts (2530, T517Z, AX's), but you would be running a sh!t load of boost... Might wanna have a forged bottom end too to handle this kind of boost and power...

Otherwise big single (T78), or twin high mounts (TD06's) should do the job with ease....

you would really be pushing it for twin lowmounts to make 400rwkw. You want turbo(s) that will still be within peak efficiency to make the desired power output, not ones that have to struggle to achieve it.

So if you still want low mounts maybe twin GT-RS turbos.

personally i would do a HKS T04Z or T04R cutback, or a T-78 29D.

again i must stress that its not just turbos that make power. All the ancilliary equipment needs to be there.

Guest two.06l
what turbo/s would you guys go for to reach ~400KW@W from an RB26

just after peoples opinions

thanks guys

we are making 390awkw out of a hks 2530 kit and thats with pump fuel .boost is 25psi.but you have to remember this is using the full kit not just a turbo upgrade.its for sale if you are interested pm me for details

we are making 390awkw out of a hks 2530 kit and thats with pump fuel .boost is 25psi.but you have to remember this is using the full kit not just a turbo upgrade.its for sale if you are interested pm me for details

What do you mean "full kit" not just the turbo upgrade? And are you still running stock internals?

Guest two.06l
two.06l, was that using stock internals, and pump fuel? I didn't think manifolds made much of a diff on the GTR...

full house engine and head ,also camshaft selection is important with low mount upgrades. i only ever use mobil synergy with nulon pro strength booster ,it has more than proven its worth.also have you seen the difference in the hks manifolds to stock even the naked eye can see the diff. in their ability to flow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...