Jump to content
SAU Community

Does A Garrett Gtx3076R Need Braided Lines?

Skyline_034
 Share

Recommended Posts

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

one water line goes into the block behind the turbo....The other water line goes around the back of the head and into the back of the inlet manifold....its a pain in the ass to get to as there is a couple bolts in the back of the head....you can get with a 10mm spanner but it will try your patience...alot of people just cut it and attach a hose, isn't really the correct way to do it but it can work....make sure you use some heat proof hose though as it cops alot of heat...I used Gates flame proof, i think repco has it.....or wrap it with some kind of heat shielding...or use braided if you can get them..

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Skyline_034 Community Regular

Skyline_034

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

The water line goes around the back of the head and into the back of the inlet manifold....its a pain in the ass to get to as there is a couple bolts in the back of the head....you van get with a 10mm spanner but it will try your patience...alot of people just cut it and attach a hose, isn't really the correct way to do it but it can work....make sure you use some heat proof hose though as it cops alot of heat...I used Gates flame proof, i think repco has it.....or wrap it with some kind of heat shielding...or use braided if you can get them..

you reckon you could give me a quick reference to a suitable exhaust manifold (internal)? as ebay has heaps of crap..

as i thought stock would be fine, and i have ordered braided lines as we speak lol.

ill take a look around the head/inlet manifold. pain in the ass to put my arm around there :/ ehhhh

Edited by Skyline_034
Link to comment
Share on other sites
ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

stock manifold will be ok if you want to use it... just wont really handle what the 3076 is capable of...you'd find the 3071 would spool up a little quicker is all and still make plenty of power...but dont stress if you already have the turbo

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Skyline_034 Community Regular

Skyline_034

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i found this. When the water line comes around the head, does it go where the green coloured hose is?

7-4-10011-1.jpg

any other pics of where the water line goes? i cant feel it connect to a rubber hose at the back but i cant seem to reach/ feel it from the driver side

Link to comment
Share on other sites
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Yes and that hose is a bastard to get to in situ . It went on my 33 and in the end I had to remove the idle air control valve to get at it .

Nissan did it the right way on RB26s and piped it up to the front of the head on the turbo side and returned it into the top water outlet . Works well because any steam bubbles go out to the top rad tank and out past the cap into the overflow bottle .

A .

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Skyline_034 Community Regular

Skyline_034

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well from what I can see, I can probably get some long nose pliers in there to take off the clip and pull off the rubber hose.

But does the braided line connect straight up or would I have to put a fitting between them? :S

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Daleo
      Exemplary Сasual Dating - Real Women

      By Daleo · Posted

      Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • dyl33
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By dyl33 · Posted

      Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • GTSBoy
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • GTSBoy
      Pillowball/Hardened Runner Hybrid Approach

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • joshuaho96
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...