Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am about to do twin EGTs and twin Lambdas in to my R34 GTR and want to know what people are using and where you have placed them

My ECU will take any 5 wire O2 sensor so long as I can get the values for it otherwise it is preprogrammed for the NTK LZA-09-E1s, which I plan on putting at the start of the front pipes before the CATs

My ECU has twin K type thermocouple inputs for EGTs and they recommend 1.5-3mm hi inconel SS probe, which I plan on putting into the hole where the factory O2 sensors go

Any ideas or comments or suggestions, feel free to add any ideas you guys have

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441930-egts-and-o2-sensors/
Share on other sites

I maintain that EGT measurement AFTER the turbo is a waste of time. There is a significant energy loss across the turbine. It is preferableto measure upstream the turbo. So, either in the manifold collector, or perhaps drilled into the turbine housing just after the flange.

I have my EGT sensor install exactly there (in the turbine housing). Has been there for 2 years now. Doesn't leak, hasn't caused any grief. Still reads the same sorts of temperatures at the same sorts of loads as it did when first installed, so clearly it is able to survive there. is good.

I'd say a 3mm inconel sheathed Type K theremocouple. Set up the fitting to insert the tip just a few mm into the gas stream. Job done. It does tend to measure the temperature of the housing itself a bit once the housing has been heated up by the gas on a heavy run, but it certainly reacts fast enough to gas temperature rising when the load increases.

Mine is just a cheapy Taiwanese ProSport EGT guage. You know those stepper motor Defi clones. Came with thermcouple and fittings. I just drilled and tapped a hole into the turbo while it was off the car. That's the big hassle with fitting upstream the turbo - it's hard to impossible to do it on the car. Iand probably not a good idea to try either).

I'm only looking at the factory location due to room and hassle of fitting, the factory O2 location is easy enough to get ATM, ideally the collector area in the manifold would be ideal and definitely something I will be looking at when the motor comes out next time, and given it a running GTR its only a matter of time now :D

I removed both my o2 sensors and used a stainless adapter to run 1/8npt egt on dump pipes where the 02sensors used to be. One thing i overlooked at the time was using different metals, cast iron/brass/stainless all expand at different rates and although i haven't noticed it on my car a lot of people have problems with their threads loosening over time.

I also fitted a wideband sensor just before the cat. i wouldn't run the sensor too close to the turbo they aren't really made to be permanently mounted. a lot of people have damaged their sensors prematurely mounting off the dump possibly because of the extra heat.

  • 4 weeks later...

Stumbled across this a few mins ago

expensive, but saves buying 11ty guages, will read everything from boost to exhaust manifold pressure, fuel pressure and temp, IAT's etc

http://www.zada-tech.com/product/multi-gauges/43-full-colour-tft-lcd-multi-gauge

A few sensors ive seen are quite long, if i mount one jn the exhaust housing of turbo, how long does it need to be?

And if i get industrial thermocouples Australia to make some up for me what length do i tell them?

If i lower my intake temp through ceramic coating and insulators on intake plenum, fmic and piping will it make a noticeable dif to temp in exhaust housing?

You only want the tip of the TC to stick in a few mm. In a big pipe like a dump it could go in 12-15mm and give a faster response to exhaust temperature changes without interrupting flow too much. But in the manifold collector or turbine inlet you only want the end of it peeking through.

My TC is bent. The insertable bit is only 30mm long or so, and it has the stainless olive/gland on it to screw down onto the stainless fitting tapped into the exhaust housing. If you get yours bent then a 50mm length on the last straight bit will enable you to insert it anything from just barely to more than enough, I should think.

Keeping the inlet temperatures cooler by, what, 30°C, isn't really going to have a noticeable effect on the exhaust temperatures. You might see a small decrease in temp (although be hard pressed to notice it) but given that the end effect of cooling the intake charge down is usually to put in more fuel and air and hence make more power, you might not expect to see much!

Stumbled across this a few mins ago

expensive, but saves buying 11ty guages, will read everything from boost to exhaust manifold pressure, fuel pressure and temp, IAT's etc

http://www.zada-tech.com/product/multi-gauges/43-full-colour-tft-lcd-multi-gauge

That is a good thing, just doesn't give the ECU inputs for safety protocols for engine cuts

This is what I'm going to get for my Syvecs soon

http://mobile.dudamobile.com/site/jti-site?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jti.uk.com%2Ftoucan%2F&dm_redirected=true#2902

Speaks for it self really, its just really expensive but all inputs come from one of the CANBUS outputs from the ECU

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
    • Great weekend and event. Open fire at the caravan park, perfect weather all day and a great feed and a couple of drinks at at awesome country pub.
×
×
  • Create New...