Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the title suggests my skyline sounds like it's missing.

I bought this car as a doer upper and have since got it running and 99% put back together but now I've got another issue

THINGS I HAVE ALREADY DONE ARE.

I have checked for air leaks with pressurised smoke.

Also tried the carbi cleaner trick but no change.

I have replaced the plugs but no change.

I have replaced the coil packs with red split fires.

I have checked timing marks all line up. and they do.

I have checked the wiring. NO PROBLEMS

TODAY

I'm going to take off 1 coil lead at a time and see if I can find which cylinder is playing up.

I haven't done a comp test yet.

I have heard of people going through a years paycheck finding the issue and it turned out to be a bum coil or plug. But seeing as there both new they should be ok.

I will keep this post going so just maybe I can save others from waiting time and money.

post-113589-0-94753700-1398484164_thumb.jpg

post-113589-0-92451100-1398484316_thumb.jpg

Right. Job done.

What I done

I started be removing the plugs to the coils

Started with No#1. NO DIFFERENCE.

No#2 NO DIFFERENCE.

No#1 and No#2 NO difference (Weird I know)

No#3 No#4 No#5 No#6 all made a difference.

Pulled No#1 coil and Plug out and earthed it and it put out a nice big spark.

Pulled No#2 coil and Plug out and earthed it and it put out a nice big spark.

So I replaced them both coils and plugs and removed the

No#1 Injector plug. I put an LED into it and it was pulsing.So then I removed the No#1 Injector.

A couple of the yellow bits on the pintle were busted. But other then that it looked fine.

I removed the fuel pump fuse and turned it over whilst holding injector in my hand

and if it was working I would have felt a CLICK CLICK that they make when there

pulsing the fuel in. NOTHING.

Thought it might need an earth so I sat it in an earth but nothing still.

RESULT.

All coils were firing on time with the timing.

All plugs were receiving good current and producing more then ample spark.

All injector plugs were fine and all were making good pulse.

All injectors except No#1 & No#2 made pulse.

SOLUTION

REPLACE 2 injectors with ones borrowed from a friend

And see if that fixes the issue. If so. Replace ALL INJECTORS and top half inlet gasket

And some pipes that are hard to get to unless the intake is separated.

NEXT UPDATE WHEN I GET SOME INJECTORS.

  • Like 1

Do a compression test - you may have broken rings on 1 and 2 - you would be amazed at how well an RB25DET can go on four cylinders!

And try a known good CAS to see if that makes a difference (you can often tell a dud CAS by trying to spin it when it is off the car).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep it sure does.   Tone wheel lines up in the same spot perfectly.    
    • Something I meant to say when we were chatting the other night about having an open trailer floor being great to work on a car, but you've never used the feature... It's a great place to park a car after doing suspension component changes, and do the tightening of all the bushes with the car sitting at full ride height. Especially when you don't have a 4 post hoist!
    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
×
×
  • Create New...