Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys so this is the car i baught 1 week ago.
currently got a nissan r33 1993 gts as my daily as im a P Plater in Victoria :(
But baught this 96 gtst for 5k on the weekend. needs a few little things other than that im in love. list further down of everything that ill be doing.

This is the day i drove it home. misses drove my gts to get me up there.

10270967_10202626383313240_886755486_o_z

Model Skyline R33 series 2

Heres 2 quick photos i took of it this morning.

20140429_070150_zpsfe262e7f.jpg

20140429_070135_zpsdf88f49b.jpg

The car is completely stock apart from a pod filter and cat back exhaust the previous owner had fitted.
Engine bay shot.

20140426_153304_zps2f6bb3de.jpg

He also gave me a 13 silicone hose kit. but i could only find 1 hose apart from the 2 radiator ones that actually fitted. as you can see. so looks stupid.

plan on doing the cheap quick free mod on the weekend. with the boost controller by putting a ground switch in the cab so if i want it to full boost straight away isntead of waiting till 4500. i switch the switch. :)

In need of replacing my coilpacks as they missfire past 4500. tried replacing sparks helped alot but missfires still there. so gonna try recondition them on the weekend clean out and put some dielectric compound on the rubbers ect see if ti fixes it if not splitfires it is.
Just serviced it last weekend.

Spark plugs
oil filter
oil
fuel filter
and re mounted the pod as the previous owner broke the bracket and thaught itd be good for me to drive it home without a filter on. dick head....
had it zip tied for the drive home ahha.

will be doing stuff to this neally every week-2 weeks so thread will eb updated regularity.

any suggestion ect are welcome.

My wants
are a return flow cooler.
power FC (or any other respectable plug in replacement ecu.
pump the PSi up to 11-12. further down the track i want to get the direct replacement hiflowes from hypergear i think its called.

getting a bellmouth dump/front pipe fitted with a hi flow cat within the next few weeks also.
cant wait. need to get rid of the huge cannon on the back though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/442473-mattz-96-33gtst-build/
Share on other sites

So on the weekend i bought a couple of things.
a boost gauge and pod.

20140503_171015_zps049ccdcf.jpg

I decided to mount it on the A-pillar. run the vacuum line from the factory boost gauge vacuum line. Td into that. and wired it all up to the cigaret lighter wires. for light and ground ran a separate constant power for the Ram to remember which color is set.

20140504_125703_zps4800664e.jpg

I think its mounted in a good spot

20140504_125707_zps00573279.jpg

Also as i didnt replace my fuel filter the other day i replaced that also. i must say those fuel lines are so hard to get off. haha.

Few questions for maybe some well known members that know alot fo trouble shooting for skylines. got a missfire at 4500 RPms i changed my plugs. didnt fix it, yesterday i pulled the coils back off cleaned them up and put Di Electric silicone compound on the inside of the boots ect.

may of helped a bit but not really still at 4500-5000 the missfire jumps in. afm is in good condition. thaught maybe it was a fuel restriction due to the fuel filter. not knowing when it was last changed. but that didnt fix it today. you guys recon its coilpacks?

If so whats the best option to go.
OEM
Splitfires.
Ive heard of LS coils what are these? a cheaper good option where do i get them what are they called?

much appreciated guys. thanks.

I have ls coils they are off chev v8s they can all be used but are not as tidy as the standard coils they require a custom bracket and wiring they are cheep and got a fair bit of power in them but need the dwell times changed to get the most out of them.

The standard coils are proven they have lasted around 20 years but are costly for new ones. I have some with 800kms sitting around here but are for a s1 that I plan to sell cheep.

As for the split fires I can't comment don't know much about them.

Here is my ls coil setup post-110592-13991979776073_thumb.jpg

Thought so just didnt wanna sound dumb by saying were they for Ls like ls1 ls2 ect haha. thanks man.

so i guess its an option but only if done neatly otherwise will look messy. may i ask why you went with LS if you had perfectly fine ones?

P.S does the factory harness need to be re wired and LS plugs to be bought ect. or are they a good option as there plug straight in?

Edited by MathewZ

So been having a lot of issues with my speedo lately. The other day when i was driving along at 80 all of a sudden bam no speedo. hit the cluster a bit made the speedo go up then down again then not at all nothing. pulled over, shut the engine off waited 5 minutes turned back on, and nothing.

So tried resetting the trip computer. may have worked? didnt though haha. so drove slowly back to work. to pull all the surround off. i found some screws on the back of the cluster loose tightened them up went for a drive seemed to of fixed it. and just 3 days ago again bam lost speedo. pulled it all apart again. checked my plugs all contacts seem in good condition. and again the screws were loose again. screwed them all abck up. mind you my dash doesn't vibrate at all so dont see why there going loose. also i took 2 pictures of my cluster.

Looks to me like theres atleast 8-10 screws missing and 2 bulbs. not sure if this is normal or not. anyone can ilaberate maybe if they are pretty familiar with the S2 cluster haha? heres 2 pictures.

20140505_165809_zpsc6b4e2b1.jpg

20140505_165756_zps30df80e5.jpg

Thought so just didnt wanna sound dumb by saying were they for Ls like ls1 ls2 ect haha. thanks man.

so i guess its an option but only if done neatly otherwise will look messy. may i ask why you went with LS if you had perfectly fine ones?

P.S does the factory harness need to be re wired and LS plugs to be bought ect. or are they a good option as there plug straight in?

. I changed to the ls coils because my igniter shit itself so I decided I'd just get rid of it and get smart coils and I guess I was just bored and wanted something todo haha the harness needs to be modified to suit and an extra earth to the ls coils as they are 4 pin and the rb coils are a 3 pin didn't take me long to redo the full engine loom helps to be an auto sparky.

So been having a lot of issues with my speedo lately. The other day when i was driving along at 80 all of a sudden bam no speedo. hit the cluster a bit made the speedo go up then down again then not at all nothing. pulled over, shut the engine off waited 5 minutes turned back on, and nothing.

So tried resetting the trip computer. may have worked? didnt though haha. so drove slowly back to work. to pull all the surround off. i found some screws on the back of the cluster loose tightened them up went for a drive seemed to of fixed it. and just 3 days ago again bam lost speedo. pulled it all apart again. checked my plugs all contacts seem in good condition. and again the screws were loose again. screwed them all abck up. mind you my dash doesn't vibrate at all so dont see why there going loose. also i took 2 pictures of my cluster.

Looks to me like theres atleast 8-10 screws missing and 2 bulbs. not sure if this is normal or not. anyone can ilaberate maybe if they are pretty familiar with the S2 cluster haha? heres 2 pictures.

20140505_165809_zpsc6b4e2b1.jpg

20140505_165756_zps30df80e5.jpg

the missing screws are normal also.

But hows your fuel economy running that much all day ery day?

was only thinking for it as i want to be able to say run 8pound then when i feel a bit naughty switch it to 12(different turbo) 18-20. as im at talks with a local tuner for future modifications.

Decided to get new OEM replacement coilpacks through my tuner as he recomended them as being as good as splitfires and sees no problems with them running the type of power im cahsing. and the extra $$$ i spend on splitfires could go towards other things.

So picking up a turbosmart Tee to fiddle with the boost a little. not going to go over 10 but atleast i can run 8pound allways without doing the cheap 8pound permanent fix. by grounded the solonoids earth wire.

Picking one up for $50 tomorrow. also a 42mm second hand but in good nic alloy radiator. so will be able to chuck my Blue silicone hoses on too. haha.


What are peoples thaughts on running 10pound untuned ive seen mixed results. varying from car ran perfect no hassles what so ever. to some having slight problems.

will be no updates for 2 weeks after this post as im goign into surgery this friday. and will be out of action for 2 ish weeks. atleast ill have some goodies to put on when i get better. Pictures to come when purchased. just casue i love sharing :D

But hows your fuel economy running that much all day ery day?

was only thinking for it as i want to be able to say run 8pound then when i feel a bit naughty switch it to 12(different turbo) 18-20. as im at talks with a local tuner for future modifications.

Decided to get new OEM replacement coilpacks through my tuner as he recomended them as being as good as splitfires and sees no problems with them running the type of power im cahsing. and the extra $$$ i spend on splitfires could go towards other things.

So picking up a turbosmart Tee to fiddle with the boost a little. not going to go over 10 but atleast i can run 8pound allways without doing the cheap 8pound permanent fix. by grounded the solonoids earth wire.

Picking one up for $50 tomorrow. also a 42mm second hand but in good nic alloy radiator. so will be able to chuck my Blue silicone hoses on too. haha.

What are peoples thaughts on running 10pound untuned ive seen mixed results. varying from car ran perfect no hassles what so ever. to some having slight problems.

will be no updates for 2 weeks after this post as im goign into surgery this friday. and will be out of action for 2 ish weeks. atleast ill have some goodies to put on when i get better. Pictures to come when purchased. just casue i love sharing :D

My fuel economy is shocking lol - I get about 300km to from an absolutely full tank. It makes nearly 300rwkw though ;)

Control boost with your right foot. You'll probably find you'll leave it in high boost mode most of the time anyway.

New OEM coilpacks are the way to go. They can handle big power if new or in good condition.

The factory ECU's vary in regard to how much boost they can handle without going into R&R. 10-11psi is usually about the limit. Same goes for factory turbo.

TurboTech MBC's are generally regarded as better than the Turbosmart MBC due to being a spring and ball as opposed to a bleed valve.

Wouldnt a bleed valve be more reliable. as over time wouldnt the spring inside a Turbotechs MBC would slowly loose tension. therfore changing boost pressure without adjusting, im not speeking of like 2 weeks but like over 1-2 years. would it not loose tension.?

Not sure about them wearing out, there's plenty of people who have been using them for years with no problems. The problem with bleeds is just that, they bleed air, meaning the wastegate begins to open before full desired boost is reached, hurting response. Ball and spring type valves hold shut until desired boost is reached and then open.

There a whole bunch of threads on that topic, and they general consensus is that the TurboTech is a better product overall. They're cheap too :thumbsup:

Nice car by the way, it looks like a clean base to start with.

So picked up a few things last night.
Wish i had seen your post earlier about bleed valves killing the response apposed to spring and ball operated BCers

Well anyways. i got this cheap as so if i do find it not very responses i can always get the Turbo Tech Ones.

20140515_070912_zps8b33979c.jpg

Then Picked up a second hand out of a 33 my mates stripping. alloy 42 MM radiator. going to be giving it a good clean out and polish. still has the old hoses on at the moment until i get round to putting it in. and polishing it up too look nice and SHINY :D

20140515_070808_zps74445296.jpg

Nother shot

20140515_070820_zps0e774451.jpg

Also got these blue silicone hoses to go on when i put it in.

20140515_070942_zpse94474e1.jpg


Will be picking up a set of new OEM coilpacks sometime next week. and hopefully put it all in not this weekend but the following.

Going in to hospital tomorrow so will be out of action for a week or so depending on recovery.

But KEEN as to get these all in.

Probably going to put the Turbosmart in. but hide it and keep the factory controller the with fake vacuum lines on to make it look stock. but not. as ill be needing a RWC further down the track when i plan to register this.

Going to make the turbosmart just run on 8PSI like stock. for now. unless people recon running 10 without a tune or FMIC nor Downpipe and cat is safe? if not im in no rush so probably just run it on 8Psi anyways.


Also plan on getting a body kit within the next few months. Want a GTR front bar. GTR spoiler 400r skirts and undecided rear bar as of yet.
Possibly not the gtr spoiler though. seen alot of drag style spoilers around lately. pretty keen on them too. or the Do Luck boot lip spoiler. haha.

So been looking around alot for turbo options.
id love to get a top mount manifold and top mounted turbo just for the pure Sexyness look. but dont want to really get anything liek that if a cop pops the bonnet and defects for it. being an Intake modification.

Are top mounted turbos defectable in victoria ect?

Ive seen this seems very cheap but wondering what others opions are if anyones had one.
i know theres hypergear. GCG? i think and TOG this tog seems the cheapest.

http://togauto.com.au/product/tog-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-rb20det-rb25det-bolt-on-turbo-480hp-gtst-gtt/

TOG-4876S-400x320.jpg

Direct bolt on with few modifications. intake pipe ect.

seems very cheap and if good wouldnt be a good bang for your buck option. but then again ID love a top mounted torubo. i dont want crazy power so no 6766 precision turbos or anything. just want really 250+ KWs with a nice engine bay. but are top mounts legal? if not can they be made Legal. ?

ive heard of one place saying they have a botl on turbo like Hypergear except better. wouldnt give me any details weirdly. and said id get 280-300kws with just the turbo and intercooler and downpipe....

Id love to know of a good skyline tuner around melborune. preferably in SE dandenong ringwood area kidna thing. that maybe i could talk to? that anyone knows has a great reputation with skyliens and tuning. very hard when you dont have many contacts or friends tuning wise that you can ask.

i was recommended a guy in Dandeong Force motorworx. yet me asking too many questiosn seemed to angry him and he stopped contacting me. even though i was going to buy parts through him. like my coilpacks ive mentioned im getting.

so any good parts suppliers/tuners aroudn SE Melbourne please thanks guys. thats fi anyone reads my posts anyways haah. seems to get alot more veiws than posts haha.

Thanks.

PS i know quite a few people go with the garret gt3076r turbo. Tog do one of these for 1/3 the price. wouldnt mind knowing if anyones gotten one. and how they went if its worth goign cheaper or just pay the 1500 for a garret.?

also ECus. i knwo for tuning ill need a piggieback or new ecu Powerfc ect ect. what do you guys suggest. going the Power FC. i dont want the hand controller as i dont want my interior to start looking all modded and shit. whats the best cheap way for ECu . shoudl i find a piggy back? just get a power FC. ect theres too many options ahah.

Edited by MathewZ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...