Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I came across this series 3 bcnr33 and thought i would do a quick check with Japanese History Check (JHC). It looked like a very clean car with low kms - 25,000km.

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1997/SSE-AD-2501342/?Cr=7&sdmvc=1

When the results came back from JHC the cars vin (blue plate) came out as a 1996 with 63,000kms on it and was brought in to AUS in 2008 with a grade R and never complied.

However the PPSR check came out as a 97 car which was complied in 98.

So here is the confusing part - If the car was complied and registered here in Australia in 1998 how does the japanese history check in Japan have it as export to Aust in 2008 with a different grade?

Any idea?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443162-would-you-buy-this-r33-gtr-s3/
Share on other sites

It does look like a clean S3, however I am puzzled by the low kms and the V-Spec sticker as that does spell dishonesty.

I think it's becoming hard to put prices on these cars, it's more about what you want to pay for one and less what they're actually "worth" :)

Yeh that's the problem he doesn't have the de registration paper work.

With JHC they provided me with the de registration paperwork for that cars vin and it came out as a 1996 model with 64,000kms and with the grade R and imported to AUS in 2008.

He told me there must be a mistake or some mistype so I checked it over and over again and it is 100% the correct VIN.

So that's what's so confusing, PPRS states though that the car was registered here in AUS in 1998.

Yeh that's the problem he doesn't have the de registration paper work.

With JHC they provided me with the de registration paperwork for that cars vin and it came out as a 1996 model with 64,000kms and with the grade R and imported to AUS in 2008.

He told me there must be a mistake or some mistype so I checked it over and over again and it is 100% the correct VIN.

So that's what's so confusing, PPRS states though that the car was registered here in AUS in 1998.

there is enough rotten fish smell to indicate to stay away from this car mate.

Did you ask JHC to confirm?

It does look very clean, has the appropriate plates for a 1998 registered car, and VicRoads has 1998 as the compliance year if you check their website. The seller also apparently has the rego papers from 1998.

What build year comes up in FAST or a Nissan VIN interpreter?

Edited by BuuBox

Yes I have confirmed it with JHC. I paid to get the deregistration sheet and they did a free check on the auction sheet.

Unfortunately for me they couldn't provide me an auction sheet as it was missing in file but they could provide me the following:

Auction: CAA Tokyo

Lot No: 1282

Date: 02/09/2008

Description: Nissan Skyline GT-R

Type: BCNR33

Chassis No: BCNR33-023136

Transmission: F5

Color: White

Displacement: 2600

Equipment: AAC

Inspection: 2010.04

Year: 1996

Scores: R

Mileage, km: 64,000

You'd really want to know off the auction sheet what "R" (for repaired) really means!

It's not the same car though, unless the Victorian registration in 1998 is an elaborate ruse. The VIN Vicroads has recorded is also the old style import VIN with seemingly random numbers.

It could be a rebirth with that chassis number in Japan, or even an administrative error.

considering the main purchase point of that car appears to be the low km's, i would be asking for the japanese de-registration papers to help prove the km's

Did they exist in 1997/1998?

Edited by BuuBox

It's not the same car though, unless the Victorian registration in 1998 is an elaborate ruse. The VIN Vicroads has recorded is also the old style import VIN with seemingly random numbers.

It could be a rebirth with that chassis number in Japan, or even an administrative error.

Did they exist in 1997/1998?

yes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...