Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Time for a power upgrade :wassup:

after driving around for about 4 months in this beast of a car!i am addicted to Skylines more then my seven... although my seven is not standard but i feel the need of upgrade and i have been sorta getting over the rotary and now addicted to the RB Twin Cam powerd engine!

the list just goes on for great performance!!!!!

GCG Hi Flow Turbo

GTR Fuel Pump and Injecters

Intercooler with pluming to suit 600*300*76

Apexi Power FC

GTR Cams

dump pipe

hi flow cat

aftermarket exhaust with aftermarket muffler.

std gbox.

the car has done 96,000klms and is running like a beughty!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44397-modifieng-an-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

I'd just be getting a quick dyno run done to check the mixtures and the timing are ok and if so then leave it alone for a while til you sort suspension. Then you'll know what power it makes and know it's safe. PLus you already seem happy with the way it drives.

Brakes are very good standard, just get some decent pads, I wont recommend brands cos there always seem to be arguements. I use rb74s.

I'd just be getting a quick dyno run done to check the mixtures and the timing are ok and if so then leave it alone for a while til you sort suspension. Then you'll know what power it makes and know it's safe. PLus you already seem happy with the way it drives.

Brakes are very good standard, just get some decent pads, I wont recommend brands cos there always seem to be arguements. I use rb74s.

The power delivery on RB engines are allot differnt from my Seven thats why i am chosing to modify this car too.

cant wait!

If you start making over 200rwkw and use a set of grippy tyres make sure you hire a car trailer and a mate to tow the car home from the drags. The rb20t g/box's don't like grippy tyres. Standardish street tyres are fine, iits only soon as you start dropping big burnouts on Nitto's then launching you will break the box.

A power fc was never made for the rb20 :). You'll have to find a Ap Engineering one and they arnt easy to find trust me. if you do find one be prepared to forlk out some serious cash, coz you'll need a z32 afm aswell to make decent power with a good tuner. I dont want to put a damperner or anything. Just letting you know. I'm going for 200-220 out of mine. atm i'm at 140rwkw. :)

Well there seems to be not such an issue with buying Pfcs new, but 2nd hand they are pretty rare and normally sell for more then a new R33 PFc.

FYI, i just paid $1150 for the PFc, $300 for the AFM, and $400 for the hand controller... so is certainly not cheap like an S13 of R33

Clutch, there is no clutch upgrade on the list and it will need one. You can get the standard ECU tuned in real time on R32's. So if you can't find a Power FC, then it's a good fall back. I haven't had to change the AFM up to 225 rwkw, you may not need to do it. Some engines do, some don't. I have no idea why, I put it down to "engines are different".

Hope that helps :)

How do re-mapped ECUs go with different AFMs and bigger injectors...i suspect they are fine?

Whilst its great that the std ECU can be re-mapped, i had trouble finding a tuner that could do it at a dollar figure that sounded reasonable. I was quoted by around $800 by one shop, though im comfortable at that price, with that workshop it woudl be a great tune. Capable tuner seem to charge about $300 less for a PFC tune.

How do re-mapped ECUs go with different AFMs and bigger injectors...i suspect they are fine?

Whilst its great that the std ECU can be re-mapped, i had trouble finding a tuner that could do it at a dollar figure that sounded reasonable. I was quoted by around $800 by one shop, though im comfortable at that price, with that workshop it woudl be a great tune. Capable tuner seem to charge about $300 less for a PFC tune.

Hi Roy, don't you ever sleep? :ghost:

One of my famous "rules of thumb", if I change the AFM then the standard ECU is past it. A small upgrade in injectors is OK, but doubling them to 550 cc's is not a SMALL upgrade. You made the right choice technically, relax and get on with it. :)

As to price, ~$800 seems to be the going rate for a real time tune and chip burn on a standard ECU. Trouble is it is ~$800 everytime you make a change. That's why the Power FC was a good choice financially , so relax and get on with it. :)

Next time I am in Mexico for a race meeting it's your :cheers:

Looks good to me. Has enough bits for an easy 220rwkw plus depending on the highflow and tune.

Hope the suspension, braking and tyres have been sorted too :D

I doubt he's got 220rwkw...

I'm guessing around the 190-200 mark. I've yet to see a RB20 with more than 210rwkw

knowing what amount of boost he's running would be good as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or just put in a 1JZ, and sell me the NEO head 😎
    • Oh, it's been done. You just run a wire out there and back. But they have been known to do coolant temp sensors, MAP sensors, etc. They're not silly (at Regency Park) and know what's what with all the different cars.
    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
×
×
  • Create New...