Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day all,

My first post of many I hope. I have been lurking around the forums for a week or so and have already gleamed a lot of useful info. So I thought it was about time I joined.

I was wondering if anyone has had any dealings with http://www.motorpointsydney.com.au

I'm thinking of going through them for a Skyline 370GT coupe. I live in another state, so I can't check them out personally.

Any info at all will be a big help.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444073-dealership-question/
Share on other sites

Sorry for a stupid question but have you considered importing it yourself (using a respected broker), you may not get it cheaper but you'll definitely get better quality wise. Given you can't check the car in NSW, it's almost certainly better to get the car from Japan directly, if you are not in hurry and can wait for 2-3 months, of course.

As per above - using a reputable importer like Iron Chef or Prestige Motorsport is the only good way to go.

If you HAVE to buy from a car yard (due to financing the car or if you are in a desperate hurry), then you MUST get the yard to supply the Japanese deregistration papers and auction documents to verify km. ALMOST EVERY car yard winds back odos and does dodgy shit. It is just a part of import life in Australia.

ALMOST EVERY car yard winds back odos and does dodgy shit. It is just a part of import life in Australia.

^^ This, bigtime. ask for the dereg papers and export certificate. if they baulk at this.. walk away.. If they are an honest dealer, they will have no problems supplying you these documents, and if they were the importer of the car, they WILL have them.

My first choice was to import & yes it would be through the respected iron chef.

However this car came up unexpectedly & it has everything I want and I really don't think I would get it much cheaper through the Chef Master?

They have no probs supplying the paperwork, Dereg papers & auction papers. That's all the paperwork I would need isn't it? Also on that, how do you find out if the car itself has had anything happen to it in Japan? Things like storm/water damage or an accident etc. Would that be disclosed on the dereg papers?

I was initially going to fly there and have a look personally at the car, but I've changed my mind now. Instead I will ring RAA & get them to send an independent mechanic to look over the vehicle for me.

The car itself is a 2011 with around 11,000 km on the clock, so I wouldn't think there would be anything to worry about? Famous last words right.... Bloody better not be.

Surely I'm not the only one that's gone through an Australian car dealer?

If they supply all of the above, please let me know if you all think its still a terrible idea to go through them.

Cheers

By SEVS rules, and previous damage (water or otherwise) would make the car inegligible for import/compliance, so you would assume this is a non-issue.

Still, get the car checked out by a reputable source (they don't have RAA in Syd btw).

If they are happy to supply dereg and auction papers, and you are happy wiht the price, then go for it.

The car itself is a 2011 with around 11,000 km on the clock, so I wouldn't think there would be anything to worry about? Famous last words right.... Bloody better not be.

Having bought several cars in Japan (not only my Skyline) I would do due diligence very carefully on this one. Economic of cars on auctions of that age and mileage favors private buyers rather than dealers, these cars are just too expensive for dealers to buy them to keep at their yard as not every average guy passing by showroom would easily spot the difference between cars done 11k and 80k and since latter ones are significantly cheaper on auctions, it is just too easy for anyone familiar with the procedure to wound back the odometer and pocket additional $5k for no effort at all.

I would ask for the dereg papers and auction sheet, verify in statistics that the sheet is not tampered and then make decision whether to proceed or hold.

Again, there are guys who do things right (Bespoke comes to mind) but some don't

Edited by Zveruga

^^^ agreed. But this one with such incredibly low km should be VERY easy to spot if it has been wound back. Basically, as an 11,000km car every single thing should be basically brand new. Should be pretty easy to spot if things are worn beyond the km.

I was wondering if anyone has had any dealings with http://www.motorpointsydney.com.au

Motor Point = Sports Auto Group = Elite Motorsports = All Imports

Several physical locations but all part of the one group. Watch their stock for a few weeks and you'll notice it gets shared around between the sites.

Of the above, SAG and All Imports already have a reputation, ask around - search this forum and other large clubs focussed around imports.

If you must buy from a dealer always ask for BOTH auction sheet and de-registration paperwork. If they won't give you both documents, walk away or get hold of these documents via an online services before handing over your money.

Edited by dodgyimports

If they remotely have ANYTHING to do with All Imports, then stay away as far as possible. In fact run and hide.

And, if it seems to good to be true, then it normally is. Warning bells went off in my head when you said you couldn't bring one in through Kristian cheaper - obviously there is something seriously wrong there, when the dealers need to make AT LEAST $5k-$10k out of each car.

If they remotely have ANYTHING to do with All Imports, then stay away as far as possible. In fact run and hide.

And, if it seems to good to be true, then it normally is. Warning bells went off in my head when you said you couldn't bring one in through Kristian cheaper - obviously there is something seriously wrong there, when the dealers need to make AT LEAST $5k-$10k out of each car.

Nah I didn't say for sure I wouldn't get one cheaper through Iron Chef. I said I didn't think I would get it much cheaper? I have been dealing with Troy from Iron chef and he has been outstanding. I have also shown him the details of this vehicle and price etc.

Now I don't know what to do.... Arggh.

This will be the first import vehicle I would be buying, so I bloody hope I get it right.

Thanks everyone for all the info. It really has been helpful and has given me plenty to think about. One good suggestion I came across on here was to get it checked out independently by Tunehouse in Marrickville Sydney (if they do that?) since I won't be there in person.

Anyone think that's a good idea?

Also I have sent a PM to Kristian to get his thoughts on the matter, so hopefully I get a reply. As I would still like to go through them but this car does seem like a good deal.

If anyone still has more thoughts on the matter and about Tunehouse idea please let me know.

Also I have no drama sharing the pics and price with anyone that has more experience than me, so you can gauge for yourself if I'm making the right decision.

Thanks again,

Paul

Your heart leans towards this Motorpoint car.

Your head should tell you that "AllImports" begat a new 'mushroom' in "Sports Auto Group" which begat a new 'mushroom' called "Elite" which in turn begat another 'mushroom' in "Motor Point" > except that what looks like a 'mushroom' could in fact be a 'toadstool'.

Did anyone mention "poison"?

PS. PM any SAU.NSW Exec about what might show up in their "Rogues & Villains" thread!

One good suggestion I came across on here was to get it checked out independently by Tunehouse in Marrickville Sydney (if they do that?) since I won't be there in person.

Anyone think that's a good idea?

Get two papers from the yard first: the auction sheet and export certificate, if you are not sure what to do then just post them here, there are many sources where these papers can be checked, I can try to give you original auction sheet for any auction in Japan if you give me the lot number, auction and dates. If something is wrong with papers then it does not make sense to spend any money on mechanics.

Your heart leans towards this Motorpoint car.

Your head should tell you that "AllImports" begat a new 'mushroom' in "Sports Auto Group" which begat a new 'mushroom' called "Elite" which in turn begat another 'mushroom' in "Motor Point" > except that what looks like a 'mushroom' could in fact be a 'toadstool'.

Did anyone mention "poison"?

Exactly that, I think my heart was taking over. It looks like a damn hot car.... As for the condition, relative to the low K's, it really is immaculate, in fact it looks brand new, inside & out, as you would expect.

However my head has listened to all of you and I have decided against buying it. So thank you everyone for your much appreciated thoughts and comments. What a great site this is :)

So it's back to my first and preferred choice and that is to import through Iron Chef.

I will keep you all posted how it goes and show off my baby once I get her.

Cheers, Paul

Get two papers from the yard first: the auction sheet and export certificate, if you are not sure what to do then just post them here, there are many sources where these papers can be checked, I can try to give you original auction sheet for any auction in Japan if you give me the lot number, auction and dates. If something is wrong with papers then it does not make sense to spend any money on mechanics.

I know to get a copy of the De-Reg and Auction Papers. You mention though an Export Certificate? Is this something completely different then the papers I have mentioned?

When I ask for them I want to make sure I sound like I know what I'm talking about ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...