Jump to content
SAU Community

My R33 Won't Go In Reverse Gear Need Help

AaronWihongi
 Share

Recommended Posts

AaronWihongi Rookie

AaronWihongi

Posted
Posted

My reverse gear in my r33 is not going into reverse gear it had a welded diff when I brought it but changed to standard thought might fix the problem, when I first got it it was really hard to go In reverse and if I was on a hill and it rolled back a little it was just slot into reverse gear normal then all of sudden now it doesn't go in at all.

I try jam it in then sort of goes in that gear then when I go to reverse it pops back to neutral and makes a crunching sound can anyone help me

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Sounds like the gearbox is dead. A slight chance would be be your clutch isn't disengaging properly.

Changing the diff would have zero impact on being able to select any gear. I'm surprised you thought it would. ...

  • Like 1
AaronWihongi Rookie

AaronWihongi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Clutch reservoir is full, nah even when cars off it won't go in gear, even some times it's just a little hard to put in some gears then sometimes it's real good but does not go in reverse just pops straight out I try hold it in reverse gear but grinds

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Anyone selling a gearbox then must be some cheap way just to fix it

Why must there be a cheap way to fix it?

Perhaps the fix is cheap , but do you have a well laid out workshop with a press and bearing pullers etc? Or any idea how the gearbox works?

I'm going to guess no.

So based on that your options are second hand box as you mentioned or go to a shop and give them your money.

AaronWihongi Rookie

AaronWihongi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not in to the drifting car just skidded every time I went to move and in the rain was a killer when had the welded diff needed something more practical for daily driving, might have to get new rebuilt transmission if nothing else works

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

There's a small chance that the issue is clutch related (have seen issues trying to select a gear when the clutch isn't disengaging properly), but I don't think that is the problem this time.

I don't suppose the car has a short shifter installed? Because that may cause the issue if it wasn't fitted correctly.

The issue more than likely lies with the selector inside the box, so it may be a somewhat simple fix, relatively speaking (would still require the box to be removed and opened up).

  • 2 weeks later...
Bennis Rising Star

Bennis

Posted
Posted

Heres a theory.

If your pressure plate has collapsed you wont be able to select gears properly. I had a falcon once with a manual box in it. The pressure plate collapsed as I was told by the mechanic and I could not selected gears 3-5 or reverse. Had to drive 40ks home with the first three gears and Ill tell you now to even change into those gears required pretty much every last bit of my strength. Felt as though I was having to pull 50kg every time I shifted the stick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • MBS206
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...