Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a set installed on a motor I'm slapping together as well.

85lb seat pressure with titanium retainers because I was upsold by my mate LOL.

Will spin the motor to 9k RPM, will have a balanced crank and Spool Import billet oil pump gears along with matching pump collar.

Funny part is, will be on stock rods, stock pistons with ACL Race conrod bearings.

#wishmeluck

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I've got a set installed on a motor I'm slapping together as well.

85lb seat pressure with titanium retainers because I was upsold by my mate LOL.

Will spin the motor to 9k RPM, will have a balanced crank and Spool Import billet oil pump gears along with matching pump collar.

Funny part is, will be on stock rods, stock pistons with ACL Race conrod bearings.

#wishmeluck

Titanium retainers are a very very good idea.  I recently juggled a set of Performance's normal retainers and the stock Nissan ones.  The Performance ones are massive.  Easily three times as thick and heavy as the stockers.  I wouldn't do that to my engine.  The Ti ones would be an easy upsell.

7 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I've got a set installed on a motor I'm slapping together as well.

85lb seat pressure with titanium retainers because I was upsold by my mate LOL.

Will spin the motor to 9k RPM, will have a balanced crank and Spool Import billet oil pump gears along with matching pump collar.

Funny part is, will be on stock rods, stock pistons with ACL Race conrod bearings.

#wishmeluck

good luck buddy, cams and turbo in the works?

2 hours ago, CHRIS MW33 said:

good luck buddy, cams and turbo in the works?

I have basic Tomei 260º/ 9.15mm cams going in with a Hypergear 45SAT (ceramic BB version) going on. Should make a modest 400~420kW at the wheels.

Don't give up VCT, worse thing to do. GTR owners are paying thousands to retrofit them to their RB26 motors.

Purpose of the car: track work, drift, might dabble in roll racing too. 

Goal: 4k of usable RPM.

i see drag only in mind and daily driver. i will not operate in the vct region most of the time therefore why bother retain the vct? vct shuts off at about 4700rpm. i will be in 5+k

 

revving to 9-9.5k should give me about 4k usable range as well

 

 

12 minutes ago, CHRIS MW33 said:

i see drag only in mind and daily driver. i will not operate in the vct region most of the time therefore why bother retain the vct? vct shuts off at about 4700rpm. i will be in 5+k

 

revving to 9-9.5k should give me about 4k usable range as well

 

 

You can control the VCT cut off point and also VCT will assist your turbo spooling. Furthermore it's a street car youll need that low down to move around traffic.

Worse idea ever removing VCT. If you want brappy cams that support VCT look at Camtech cams.

Just now, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You can control the VCT cut off point and also VCT will assist your turbo spooling. Furthermore it's a street car youll need that low down to move around traffic.

Worse idea ever removing VCT. If you want brappy cams that support VCT look at Camtech cams.

car will start on launch control at 4.5k rpm i dont drive car around in traffic. and camtech cams are at twice the price.

 

seems better to toss the vct and go larger cams.

 

3 hours ago, CHRIS MW33 said:

car will start on launch control at 4.5k rpm i dont drive car around in traffic. and camtech cams are at twice the price.

 

seems better to toss the vct and go larger cams.

 

DUMB.....

  • Like 2
42 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You give a man a hammer everything looks like a nail.

I have had it on and off on my current engine....i see no major gains. Maybe it's not working blocked or something.  Systems aged she's and fail over time as well. I will revisit it later as changed won't be made immediately

1 hour ago, admS15 said:


The man has a point but your welcome to ignore the advice and remove a fantastic engine feature coz racecar.

Also think about Wat was said.... I Drag Race and I never operate in the vct range fantastic or not it is useless if the engine nerves sees the vct. Launch control is 4500rpm weeks vct turns off at 4700 therefore I see 200rpm of vct then I stay above 5k rpm between shifts. Car is not a track car. Vct makes no sense to my setup.

 

Larger cams would be more useful since I will be operating in the 5k plus region 

We are not here to all have like minds. We will all have different ideas and minds at some point. 

but u should consider another possibility 

Also think about Wat was said.... I Drag Race and I never operate in the vct range fantastic or not it is useless if the engine nerves sees the vct. Launch control is 4500rpm weeks vct turns off at 4700 therefore I see 200rpm of vct then I stay above 5k rpm between shifts. Car is not a track car. Vct makes no sense to my setup.
 
Larger cams would be more useful since I will be operating in the 5k plus region 
We are not here to all have like minds. We will all have different ideas and minds at some point. 
but u should consider another possibility 

Dude you said on the previous page drag only and daily. Wtf. So if you intend on driving it at all on the road you would be a fool to remove vct. Clearly u have your mind made up. Good luck to you but my crystal ball says that you'll look back in the future and think those guys where right. So, will this thing be driven on the street or not? That should be what your decision is based around. Also vct will not hurt performance on the drag strip.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...