Jump to content
SAU Community

V36 Auto Window Not Working After Taking Out Battery

ahxching
 Share

Recommended Posts

Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted

Hi mate, when i still had my V36 I had issues with the windows after I replaced a battery.

Give this a shot, it might work for you as well:

* put the ignition to "ON"

* push the buttons down to open the windows & hold this for about 5 seconds after the windows wind all the way down

* push the window buttons up to close the windows & keep holding the buttons for about 5 seconds after the windows wind all the way up

After I did this my windows worked fine for me.

Let me know how you go

ahxching Contributor

ahxching

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Got too excited, just tried and now it works!! you're a legend!!

Did u had any issues with Slip, BA, ABS lights coming on the dash? do u have a fix for this aswell??

Brake fluid levels is ok, brakes has been bleed fine

nickcorr Proficient

nickcorr

Posted
Posted

You are a legend!!! :cheers:

And I don't mean a dodgy old mans Honda... :yes:

Hi mate, when i still had my V36 I had issues with the windows after I replaced a battery.

Give this a shot, it might work for you as well:

* put the ignition to "ON"

* push the buttons down to open the windows & hold this for about 5 seconds after the windows wind all the way down

* push the window buttons up to close the windows & keep holding the buttons for about 5 seconds after the windows wind all the way up

After I did this my windows worked fine for me.

Let me know how you go

Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted

all good, happy to help. :)

For the record I'm not 100% sure if the method I use is the proper handbook method, I just went from memory on a trick a service manager showed me on a 2006 350z when I was working in car sales, but hey it works ahaha

I didn't have issues with my dash lights coming on... try resetting the ecu & see if that works

austingtir Contributor

austingtir

Posted
Posted

Mine was clicking the door central locking for no apparent reason after charging the battery up. It was clicking like pretty constantly but not actually locking or unlocking the door. Really weird. Anyway i disconnected the main drivers window control with the central locking button removed the circuit board and sprayed it with contact cleaner its been fine since.... Anybody know anything about this?

It was deff that circuit board as with it disconnected it stopped straight away. I could still lock and unlock the car with the key fob.

v35jamess Newbie

v35jamess

Posted
Posted

Hi mate, when i still had my V36 I had issues with the windows after I replaced a battery.

Give this a shot, it might work for you as well:

* put the ignition to "ON"

* push the buttons down to open the windows & hold this for about 5 seconds after the windows wind all the way down

* push the window buttons up to close the windows & keep holding the buttons for about 5 seconds after the windows wind all the way up

After I did this my windows worked fine for me.

Let me know how you go

hmm i have this problem too but it doesnt work for me :( it goes down automatically but have to hold up to bring the window up. plus my window drops when the door is open. hmm

  • 5 years later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 11 months later...
Vee37 Collaborator

Vee37

Posted
Posted

Just an FYI, and to bump this for others. I had 2 problems with my passenger side electric window on my 2008 370HT

1. When I closed the door with the window up, it would actually leave the window open about 2 centimetres. I had to manually go over to the drivers side, and wind the window up/closed.

2. When I held the up for the passenger window (drivers side or passenger side control), the auto wind up did not function.

I found another thread on another site, and it suggested the same as above, but 10 seconds hold when down, winding up and holding while its at the highest for 10 seconds. I did these steps, and now both problems are resolved.:91_thumbsup:

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Duncan
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...