Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i was wondering what machining needs to be done to an RB25DET to fit GTR crank and rods? Is it a big job? Is it worth the hassle or would it be better to stick with standard crank, building motor to push out 400rwhp so would it be a benifit for my power level target?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44435-gtr-crank-n-rods-into-gtst/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

it would be a waste one would think to fit these to make such a small hp figure i reakon save for stronger pistons,linished rb26 rods and a set of cams cam gears etc this car would be a totally internally reliabe 400rwhp streeter SK your needed:) someone correct me if im wrong.

Hi all

Im new to this site and i was wondering what everyone would suggest, for me to be able to get around 300rwk from my gtst without changing the internals.

Current mods are full 3in exhaust, pod filter, adjustable tein suspension. Everything else is still stock as ive only had the car 3months. any sugestions would be appreciated thanx. These cars are the best :headspin:

so gtr rods will fit on the gtst crank? Sorry for the questions, as dumb as they may sound i honestly have no experience in this field and want to know alot b4 i build my motor, i dont want to build it and then find out that i could have used something else etc to get a better result.. thanx

Yep, RB26 rods are a cheap upgrade in an RB25 - rod length, journal size and gudgeon pin size are all the same. Rod width is a bit beefier, expecially around the big end journal.

300rwkw is pretty easy to get on a standard bottom end, there are a ton of posts on the forums of people who have done it.

No V.V.T. on the intake so you'll need to swap over to either RB26 cam gears or adjustables. Are you talking standard cams? If they are aftermarket you need to be careful of lift as they are made for solid followers, not hydraulic as the RB25s are... unless you convert them with a Tomei kit. Or RB26 valvetrain. Or make your own out of Coke cans. Or ask Alby Mangles for another way.

No V.V.T. on the intake so you'll need to swap over to either RB26 cam gears or adjustables. Are you talking standard cams? If they are aftermarket you need to be careful of lift as they are made for solid followers, not hydraulic as the RB25s are... unless you convert them with a Tomei kit. Or RB26 valvetrain. Or make your own out of Coke cans. Or ask Alby Mangles for another way.

LOL (clown) :D

Im talking Standard cams, with adjustable gear.. I heard that this mode is done on the RB20's.. Not sure it would benifit a rb25

SK mite be abled to answer this Question

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...