Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I have a r32 gts-t.

Ive read that the oil pump, or something like that, is weak on the RB20 det the same as it is on the RB26 dett. Is this true?

Also Ive read that the rb25 det and the rb26 dett have stock factory oil coolers built in. Is this true?

If I am uping my boost and tuning the car to go over 300hp, should I invest in a oil cooler?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444694-rb20-det-and-oil-cooler-questions/
Share on other sites

Even for a stock RB20 there sould have an oil cooler. The RB20 is one of the only turbo engine I know coming from factory without any oil cooler at all. :(

WTF nissan ?

I installed an oil filter bracket of a RB25 and the factory oil cooler of the CA which is bigger than the one of the RB25.

The oil heat up to 85°C pretty fast, and stays between 85 and 100°C as long as I don't go berserk. When I hit the gas pedal and the use the whole rev range the oil climb to 120°C in 10 mins or so on the road.

So even with a factory oil cooler bigger than the RB25 unit I still have my oil temp too high.

I bought a 16 row mocal oil cooler with a 92°C thermorstat. I should install it next week. I hope it will be sufficient to keep the oil within 120°C on track.

No factory oil cooler with a turbo is rare for what I know. As soon as it's a "performance" engine most of the time an oil cooler is installed.

On my daily driver I don't have an oil cooler but it's a N/A 2L motor with only 130 hp@ the fly stock. But the 2.3L N/A 160 hp engine have one.

Hello

I have a r32 gts-t.

Ive read that the oil pump, or something like that, is weak on the RB20 det the same as it is on the RB26 dett. Is this true?

Also Ive read that the rb25 det and the rb26 dett have stock factory oil coolers built in. Is this true?

If I am uping my boost and tuning the car to go over 300hp, should I invest in a oil cooler?

....considering an aftermarket oil pump will cost more than a good condition rb20, just keep it off the limiter as much as you can and don't worry too much about it. Odds are something else will fail before t he oil pump in a factory 20.

Yeah, but they are coolant/oil heat exchangers.... not air/oil heat exchangers. As above, invest in a good oil cooler system... spend good money on the adapter block/thermostat and lines... if you need to save some money anywhere, buy a cheap core. They work almost as well, but when you trash an engine they need to be replaced (you can't clean them out like everything else) and they damage easily. I use greddy thermostat sandwich plate's, compact and work well.

If your worried about oil control, have a good read of the oil control thread.

....I have a soft spot for rb20's

J.

Hello

I have a r32 gts-t.

Ive read that the oil pump, or something like that, is weak on the RB20 det the same as it is on the RB26 dett. Is this true?

Also Ive read that the rb25 det and the rb26 dett have stock factory oil coolers built in. Is this true?

If I am uping my boost and tuning the car to go over 300hp, should I invest in a oil cooler?

You'll have to do more than up your boost to hit 300hp. Why not just get an RB25 (preferably a Neo) and go from there?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...