Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so my R32 GTR randomly decided it doesnt want to start anymore, fuel pump no longer runs with ignition on

fuel pump had been re-wired for direct battery voltage and FPCM had been earthed so pump was alway on full voltage

checked the relay clicks (near ecu), directly jumping the fuel pump is fine, so issue appears to be signal to relay, swapped over relay in the boot and horn relay to another but no dice

checked engine bay and cabin fuses - all good

re-soldered a dry looking solder on pin connector of FPCM and re-did earth - no change

checked earth and power in boot, next to check the ecu (pfc handcontroller does not show F/P running till cranking - whereas with FPCM earthed, used to run continously on ign)

what's the go with pin 18 on the ECU, is it for ground or power signal to relay?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444698-faulty-fpcm-no-signal-to-fp/
Share on other sites

Fuelpump_zps02b28fb5.jpg

IGN power to the top of the coil on the realy, then earthed through Pin 18 on the ECU

So if you don't have power on the relay coil siide with ignition on, then you have a power problem, If you have power then quite possibly an ECU issue

Depending on how you have done the Direct feed to the pump, it may still be utilizing the the FPCM, in which case you can get rid of it completely but just running the Battery power to one side and the other straight to ground. There is no need to keep the FPCM

Should be able to work it out with that diagram anyway

Edited by 89CAL

Thanks for the diagram, appears to be a power short somewhere, f/p fuse keeps blowing on ignition and no 12v to relay in boot

have disconnected ecu and front passenger side relays and still blowing, going to check wiring on cabin fuse block

So 15amp fuse (Fuse #41)? It's not something silly like someone has put the wrong fuse in there?

That fuse is purely for the fuel pump relay by the look of it. Can you confirm that the fuel pump works?

Also have you bypassed the FPCM so it just goes straight in the pump and then to ground?

Really it can only be the relay or the fuel pump once you ground the other side of the pump (ignoring the FPCM)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...