Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so my R32 GTR randomly decided it doesnt want to start anymore, fuel pump no longer runs with ignition on

fuel pump had been re-wired for direct battery voltage and FPCM had been earthed so pump was alway on full voltage

checked the relay clicks (near ecu), directly jumping the fuel pump is fine, so issue appears to be signal to relay, swapped over relay in the boot and horn relay to another but no dice

checked engine bay and cabin fuses - all good

re-soldered a dry looking solder on pin connector of FPCM and re-did earth - no change

checked earth and power in boot, next to check the ecu (pfc handcontroller does not show F/P running till cranking - whereas with FPCM earthed, used to run continously on ign)

what's the go with pin 18 on the ECU, is it for ground or power signal to relay?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444698-faulty-fpcm-no-signal-to-fp/
Share on other sites

Fuelpump_zps02b28fb5.jpg

IGN power to the top of the coil on the realy, then earthed through Pin 18 on the ECU

So if you don't have power on the relay coil siide with ignition on, then you have a power problem, If you have power then quite possibly an ECU issue

Depending on how you have done the Direct feed to the pump, it may still be utilizing the the FPCM, in which case you can get rid of it completely but just running the Battery power to one side and the other straight to ground. There is no need to keep the FPCM

Should be able to work it out with that diagram anyway

Edited by 89CAL

Thanks for the diagram, appears to be a power short somewhere, f/p fuse keeps blowing on ignition and no 12v to relay in boot

have disconnected ecu and front passenger side relays and still blowing, going to check wiring on cabin fuse block

So 15amp fuse (Fuse #41)? It's not something silly like someone has put the wrong fuse in there?

That fuse is purely for the fuel pump relay by the look of it. Can you confirm that the fuel pump works?

Also have you bypassed the FPCM so it just goes straight in the pump and then to ground?

Really it can only be the relay or the fuel pump once you ground the other side of the pump (ignoring the FPCM)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
×
×
  • Create New...