Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A picture tells a thousand words, that being said, I believe you should breeze over some photo and video footage i have collected.

http://imgur.com/a/PgJK6

The time has come for me to part ways with my beloved 1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-Turbo Coupe

The odometer readout is 78000 km's

This is without doubt the cleanest R34 GT-T you will find in Sydney and the most mechanically sound.

I am the first Australian Owner of this car. Subsequently I have made sure to keep the condition and specifications exactly the same to keep the car 100% JDM.

This car has been my absolute child, saying that I have taken care of her religiously feeding her the best fuel (Shell VPower) and the finest oils. Feeling the need to maintain her, I took the liberty to add Four Brand new tyres which still have around 90% tread.


Here is a guide to the additions made to the car in Japan before myself.
- R34 GTR Front Brake Callipers
- R34 GTR Electronic Dash
- HKS Coil overs
- SSR Wheels
- 3.5" Exhaust (The tone of the exhaust is not obnoxious, which I have grown to love. It is a solid rich tone, not too loud)

Besides these additions, the car is completely stock with a great interior.

Reason for selling:

- I am in the process of starting up a business with my mates and I need to improve my cash flow.

- I am not in the greatest rush to sell the car, as I do have other means for income, that being said, NO LOWBALL offers please.

Asking Price: $19500 Negotiable

*** Just under 3 years Warranty remaining with the importer of the vehicle***

If you have any queries don't hesitate to ask.

post-126403-0-94975300-1403410061_thumb.jpg

Edited by tctommy
  • 2 weeks later...

I just replaced the brake pads, genuine tie rods and lower control arm... The steering control is that of a brand new off the line car.. Be quick because for this price I have already beat people off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...