Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I just picked up my v35 and on the way home the cvt auto gearbox kept disengaging.

Both in D and trip tronic mode.

So basically the car would get to 20-30kmh and then the cvt would seem like it disengages, the car will rev but not go anywhere. Theres a bit of a whine noise which I assume is low fluid (if any)

If you stop and go again it rengages.

I havent checked the fluid as couldnt see any dipstick

I dont get any elec issues like limp mode etc.

I tried googling any common problems and searched on here but didnt come across anything.

Ive continually read to first change gearbox oil and go from there.

Does anyone have any other suggestions or may not if its more serious?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445229-v35-cvt-gearbox-disengaging/
Share on other sites

If you do a search for CVT gearboxes on here you will find that people avoid them like the plague, as once you have a problem of any variety with them they are usually unfixable. Brilliant to drive when they are working, complete nightmare when they have a fault. you are very likely completely screwed. Most poeple who have issues end up copping the loss and parting out the car.

I was going to buy a 2002 V35 sedan and prior to me taking delivery of it, it developed similar faults in the gearbox. Short story is, $3.5k worth of fluid, service, various sensors and parts later (after weeks for parts out of Jp), and the thing was still not fixed. They ended up parting out the car and I luckily avoided a nightmare by the skin of my teeth.

Thanks guys

Having issues with actually finding out what "problems" you get with the boxes

Most things I have read is that people "avoid them", "when it breaks cant fix" etc etc. but I dont read much of people actually stating what the issue is

There seems to be a mob here in Perth who can fix it.. apparently my issue is that the box has some "collapse bearings"

http://www.micra.com.au/community/message.php?messageid=60953

IF all else fails, any gearbox conversion for these?

edit: also read servicing is ~$1200 for fluid, but that was some years ago (07ish).. looks like its much, much cheaper now. Unless these boxes specifically require super expensive fluid?

Edited by Jezzza

Having it diagnosed properly on a consult 3 unit would be a start, then see if you can find a reputable transmission specialist willing to pull it down and fix the issue. Getting the workshop manual for the CVT would make it all much easier.

I cant find any recent threads on CVT repairs done.. most are going a couple years back, and seems like everyone throws in the towel

Any idea if parts are readily avaliable and if people are ACTUALLY repairing these boxes SUCCESSFULLY?

Anyone repairing them certainly isn't going to post up 'how-to's' online. There was a specialist in NZ repairing them I seem to remember, but it was a long time ago. Perhaps do some more searching on Google?

http://www.cvt.co.nz/

An exchange transmission might end up being the easiest option.

Also, I wouldn't pay to much attention to reports of a colapsed bearing in a Micra CVT as a possible cause of yours.. they are 2 very very different transmissions.

quote: "also read servicing is ~$1200 for fluid, but that was some years ago (07ish).. looks like its much, much cheaper now. Unless these boxes specifically require super expensive fluid?" - YES, they do require super special, super expensive fluid. It is a fluid made only for the old CVT boxes, and yes it is about $1,200 for a full change.

As I already said, with the car I was looking to buy they spent $3.5k with parts etc trying to fix it, and THEN gave up. That's why you don't read stories of them being fixed. 1). they can't be unless you know what you're doing (and no-one does), and 2). who wants to start throwing big $$$ at them if the result still might be an unfixable box.

Surely some variety of 5 speed auto from a coupe could be made to fit with enough fabrication/effort, but you would NEVER have it work in auto mode (as that would require an ECU/loom change) - you would need a manual shift controller box and basically have to drive the car selecting every gear, every time.

Sorry, I meant what are the common problems? ie. catastrophic failure, gearbox doesnt engage, or wont change gears etc.

Looks like getting someone to "scan" it would be best?

edit: Whats the model number for V35 CVT tranmissions?

Edited by Jezzza

I bought it second hand from a private seller, so cant return it :(

I picked it up cheap though, and when I test drove it was fine! It was on the way home it happened!

What luck :(

Anyways, looking for someone who has a scan tool which can do it properly, before I either replace box or strip the thing

It will be sad to strip it, as it is such a nice and clean car

Hes doing what he can to help me, but unfortunately its a bit of a complicated situation

I was hoping this car would be an upgrade for the missus (mazda 2) but looks like the 2 is here to stay for a bit longer

I picked it up cheap at least

Ive parted a car out previously (R32 GTR), but bought it with the intention of doing a RB26 swap into my 260z

I don't really want to part this car out as its a pain in the ass to do.. and cosmetically is near on perfect

Exterior is really good, and interior is sweet apart from a small tear in headrest

I may have no option other than to part it out :(

Thanks heaps.. Was just gonna ask if anyone knows a mechanic with the proper scan tool!

edit: completely forgot to add this in my first post

The car had an error come up on the screen which was "P1065 ECCS RELAY"

He cleared the error when I was there, which was thought to be from a dead battery

I did drive the car before I bought it and didn't have the issue.. so I think the error code isn't related

edit edit: cannot find any info on this code

I took a picture of the reading on the diagnosis thingy (is a "GlobalSan P1")

All forums ive read relates to the "ECM"

Edited by Jezzza

p1065 check fuse in engine bay its 15a says inj emg cont had that code couple days ago and changed fuse and no more engine light.I have got scanner for the v35 if u want bring to me can scan for you or reset codes.

Edited by grant_r34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...